Joey smith Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 I have now entered the magical world of forge welding with —200% results! I own a Matthewson metal smith forge with a 3/4-1” additional kast-o-lite floor which seems to reach the temperature produced by a star! Still to no avail I cannot forge weld. Using borax, mild to mild and near lemon yellow color. I did not scarf the weld perhaps that is the magical solution? Or the choke needs closing to produce reducing environment ? When I do this the forge seems to be pulsing and not getting hot enough. I’ve also prayed to Oden and the all father. Please any help would be wonderful! I’ll include pictures . Also thought you might like the hex driver I forgot to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 My daughter suggested Thor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 How clean are you making the joint, when are you fluxing and how hard are you hitting it with what weight hammer? No need for an anvil, if you do it right you can forge weld in a vise or on a brick. It's a first session lesson to dispell the urban myth its "magic." Just follow the steps, it's easy. Too easy to pester "HIGHER by praying over. You're more likely to annoy beings you don't want to notice you at all. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Definitely something best taught person to person; have you attended any of the ABANA affiliate meetings and asked for a mentor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 How are you applying the flux? In the picture it looks like it has been dunked into the flux. If you are heating the steel to welding temp then dunking into flux and trying to get the steel to stick, that's part of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Yes I’ve applied a large quantity of flux probably getting the attention of entities not wanted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Thank you guys maybe I’ll go to theABANA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 I’m using 1018 cold rolled spotless clean, hitting with 2.2 lb and probably too hard. And fluxed when dull red waiting for some dancing flux then within 5 seconds striking. I believe it’s an environmental thing in my forge I’m watching with ir goggles and my burner sputters and im watching the scale form. Also I scarfed a joint and still no sticky sticky ! Flux is borax . Also I think im a little nervous and not wanting my forge to get destroyed. So I’ve decided to gather more info which you gentlemen have aided in , continuing to forge projects and check out a mentor as Thomas has suggested. I believe you’re all spot on more experience less fear and some one on one training. Thank you guys again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 There you go. the lower the carbon content the higher the welding temp. I don't know what you mean by dancing flux so I can't comment. If you're watching flux form IN the forge the flame is oxidizing and scale is probably forming in the joint as well. Close the choke a LITTLE till a clean piece of steel doesn't scale up in the fire. Laying two flats on each other like you have is a "faggot" weld. I shine up the joint and put a couple drops of light oil on the joint faces to prevent oxidization then sprinkle on a LITTLE BIT of flux. The oil helps stick it to the steel. Then I wire or tack weld the joint and heat it to welding temp in the forge. The reasons I flux cold when assembling the joint are: 1, there's no question the flux is where it's needed. 2 Before the joint gets hot enough to start forming scale the flux has melted and covered it so the joint can't form scale. The oil prevents oxy from reaching the steel until the flux can melt and cover it. Lastly there's nothing in the joint to become an inclusion so I don't need enough flux to flush out crud. When I set the weld I have the hammer laid on my anvil where I can lay hand on it fast. I remove the weld and if I'm not already holding the hammer pick it up as I turn. I hold the weld slightly off the anvil to prevent heat loss to the anvil and strike a moderate "dead" blow. Do NOT let the hammer bounce it can bounce the joint apart or shear it to the side. Strike a few rapid "dead" blows to set the weld. Brush, flux, return to the forge and repeat. Typically I don't strike the weld on edge till the third refining weld. I'm going to be trying flux with steel powder or saw cuttings before long and may change my idea of welding temp. I'll have to see. I like to weld at what I call watery or flickery heat, the steel will be high yellow and will have a wet look or it will look like it's flickering. When you draw it from the fire vapor will rise off it. It's on the verge of liquefying and as weldable as it gets, just holding the pieces together is often enough to set the weld. You can rub it with iron wire, if it feels tacky or sticks it's ready. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 Thank you Frostman.The scarfed joint was my fifth attempt Ugh . I’m going to try again when this rain ends as my smithy has no walls yet . New England is a weather machine but AK I couldn’t imagine not having walls and a heater and a plow and a shovel and a fur coat!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 You're welcome, my pleasure. Just bear in mind that's only how I do it, it isn't THE WAY it's done. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 2 hours ago, Frosty said: You're welcome, my pleasure. Just bear in mind that's only how I do it, it isn't THE WAY it's done. Frosty The Lucky. There is no THE WAY, settle for one that works for you and is safe, more variety you try, more experience and confidence you will achieve. Get it hot and hit it, (but not too hard when setting your welds initially, MY experience) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Truth John, that isn't the only way I do it I just didn't want to confuse things. The more ways you know how to do a thing the less likely you won't be able to. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 I've run into some cold rolled that seemed to be weld resistant till you ground off the "skin" on it. Definitely not my first stock to go to---why pay extra for CR and then stick it in the forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 Free scrap ends. I picked up about 200 pieces 1”x 3/8” x 8” free is my favorite price especially for practice pieces! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 How very blacksmitherly of you Joe. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey smith Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 At this point I’ll be proud of hot metal hitterly Thank you Frosterino. I’ll try a quick grind on a couple before attempt 6. Thank you Thomas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 On 5/5/2019 at 9:55 PM, Frosty said: Truth John, that isn't the only way I do it I just didn't want to confuse things. The more ways you know how to do a thing the less likely you won't be able to. Frosty The Lucky. But you should be able to choose one that seems to work best for you. Not just for welding, but for all 'smithing skills. It's the variety that broadens and adds to the experience memory bank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Exactly. The more ways you know how to do things the more things you can do. You have to know how to do things another way to choose. . . anything and there are other reasons than just what works best for a person. There are times I do things in ways I don't much care for because its better for the job at the time. It applies to life in general, heck the same recipe you use for stew isn't always best; I spice lamb differently than beef and sometimes use rutabega or sweet potato instead of potato. One of the adages my parents used to drive us crazy with was, "Always have a fall back, the more things you know how to do the less likely you'll be out of work." They grew up during the great depression so being able to keep a roof overhead and food on the table holding onto a job was a center issue, it colored their whole life. It applies to everything, not just welding, or blacksmithing or . . . But back to the original subject. I described my preferred method for a Faggot weld and it doesn't work for" butt or jelly roll, or ? welds. A person has to have as many tools in their mental tool kit as possible. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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