Paint Can Forge - First Forge

[Louie375]

Hey folks!

I thought I would share my first forge build after reading through this forums.

I have no experience in any of this - I will primarily be using the forge to learn and practice basic techniques and to learn how to forge small items.

Equipment being used:

Torch: Bernzomatic TS4000. 

Fuel: Propane.  I’ll be using the small camping sized bottles until I can order an adapter to attach a 15lb tank to the Berznomatic.

Forge Shell: Small paint can.  Spray painted with Rustoleum High Heat paint.

Insulation: I have a roll of 24” 8# Inswool to line the forge with.  

Shelf: I plan on using a layer of the wool to create bottom layer/strip to use as a shelf.

I think I have an understanding of Rigidizer, Refractory, and an IR coating….

Fumed Silica (Colloidal Silica): Rigidizer – This is to help bind the ceramic fibers together and stiffen (bond) everything up.  Fumed Silica would be turned into Colloidal Silica with the addition of water. I would spray this on the inside of the wool AFTER the wool has been cut to size and holes made for the burner, and placed inside the forge.

Kast-O-Lite 30: Castable Refractory – This is to protect the rigidized wool from heat and physical damage (being bumped, poked, etc) and help keep the heat inside the forge.  This material has its own special curing process found on this site and from the manufacturer.

Plistix: IR Reflective – This would be applied after the refractory layer and used as additional help to keep the heat inside the work area of the forge.  

Is the colloidal silica and Kast-O-Lite 30 overkill?  I am thinking I have read that the Kast-O-Lite could also be considered a “rigidizer”, but I could be wrong.

Also, I am thinking I will have to apply the Kast-O-Lite to the first inch of Inswool, let it cure, and then apply it again once the second layer is placed?

I ordered the Kast-O-Lite, Inswool, and Plistix.  Got it promptly after ordering, thank you sir! 

Thanks for reading 

 

 

 

 

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard Louie, glad to have you. You have lining the forge right with a couple minor details. You want to butter the insulwool before rigidizing, spritz it with water. Buttering is a masons term for wetting blocks, rocks, etc. before applying mortar and the need applies to rigidizing wool and applying hard refractories. 

If you apply: mortar, hard castable refractory, rigidizer or kiln wash to a dry surface the surface will flash dry the mortar, etc. making a layer of dry powder between the mortar, refractory. etc. and it can't bond like it should. This makes it flake off. Wetting (buttering) the surface first causes the applied stuff to dilute and flow, due to capillary action, into all the nooks and crannies and flow along the ceramic fibers in the insulwool. 

I know that's a long explanation but I think it helps if you have a handle on the what and why of things. Yes?

That's that suggestion for bonding everything together as well as reasonably possible. 

Last suggestion is a NO to applying kastolite to the insulwool in individual layers. It is the flame face and only goes on the inside layer of insulwool. 

Plistex is a kiln wash and is the actual flame face, it's formulated for and takes direct contact with the burner flame. You want to mix it with water to a consistency like thick-ish latex paint, butter the Kastolite and paint it with Plistex. Like paint it's better to apply several thin coats than one thick coat. Yes?

When you rigidize put a few drops of food coloring in it so you can see how even a coat you're applying. Yes?

You do NOT want your Bernzomatic torch very far into the liner! The tip needs to JUST be inside the Insulwool or it'll burn up. You'll want to make the burner port slightly larger where the burner nozzle enters and increase in diameter a little bit to the chamber. You'll want to treat the burner port just like the rest of the forge. Rigidize the Insulwool, then apply and cure Kastolite and lastly kiln wash it. It's going to be a flame face and needs the armor.

I hope I haven't confused things for you but you seem to have a good handle on this already so I think you'll get it. If you have questions give a shout I'm usually around, I'll get back.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

[Louie375]

Hey Frosty!  

Thank you for the response.

Gotcha - I understand the buttering now, I did some brick repair work at my old house and had to butter them up to get the mortar to get to stick. 

Understand the differences between the Rigidizer, Refractory Cement, and IR Reflective now as well. 

Thank you for all of the advice!  I haven't had a chance to apply anything yet but will post progress pics when I do.

I've been reading through Forges 101 and Lou's consolidated notes as well.  What an incredible resource this site is.

Happy forging!

 

 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome to IFI... If you haven't seen this thread yet, I always suggest it to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

[Lou L]

This was great to see!  I just saw a guy post an Instructable wherein he made this same design using just Rutland furnace cement and labeled it something like “The Ultimate Forge Build”.  I followed him to his YouTube video and tried to give him the basics...but mostly told him he should come here to learn from the real pros.  Still, his bad information is now widely available, detailed, and comes across like the gospel.  

Your approach was thoughtful and your questions were perfect.  You were made for IFI!  You are nearly curmudgeon proof.

Cant wait to see it up and running.

Lou

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

The only thing I suggest is, don't double space your sentences. It's kinda frowned upon by the admin and you may get warned about it. your forge looks spot on and should work well for small work. Next thing you know you will be building a monster 2 burner.

[Frosty]

14 minutes ago, Lou L said:

You are nearly curmudgeon proof.

Is that some kind of challenge or something Lou? Who is it you wish to pick up the goblet?  . . . Oh wait I'm completely lost now. <sigh>

Louie: The forum OS automatically double spaces returns so you don't have to. It's my preference to double space on Return too it helps me edit things. It's an old habit from typewriter days and editing my papers. It took me a while to get used to the change posting here.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Mikey98118]

Have you protected the very thin wall of your expensive torch from rapid oxidation at elevated temperatures? All it takes is the addition of a stainless steel tube outside of the flame tube you are putting in the forge.