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About Louie375

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    Woodland, CA - USA

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  1. Hey Frosty! Thank you for the response. Gotcha - I understand the buttering now, I did some brick repair work at my old house and had to butter them up to get the mortar to get to stick. Understand the differences between the Rigidizer, Refractory Cement, and IR Reflective now as well. Thank you for all of the advice! I haven't had a chance to apply anything yet but will post progress pics when I do. I've been reading through Forges 101 and Lou's consolidated notes as well. What an incredible resource this site is. Happy forging!
  2. Hey folks! I thought I would share my first forge build after reading through this forums. I have no experience in any of this - I will primarily be using the forge to learn and practice basic techniques and to learn how to forge small items. Equipment being used: Torch: Bernzomatic TS4000. Fuel: Propane. I’ll be using the small camping sized bottles until I can order an adapter to attach a 15lb tank to the Berznomatic. Forge Shell: Small paint can. Spray painted with Rustoleum High Heat paint. Insulation: I have a roll of 24” 8# Inswool to line the forge with. Shelf: I plan on using a layer of the wool to create bottom layer/strip to use as a shelf. I think I have an understanding of Rigidizer, Refractory, and an IR coating…. Fumed Silica (Colloidal Silica): Rigidizer – This is to help bind the ceramic fibers together and stiffen (bond) everything up. Fumed Silica would be turned into Colloidal Silica with the addition of water. I would spray this on the inside of the wool AFTER the wool has been cut to size and holes made for the burner, and placed inside the forge. Kast-O-Lite 30: Castable Refractory – This is to protect the rigidized wool from heat and physical damage (being bumped, poked, etc) and help keep the heat inside the forge. This material has its own special curing process found on this site and from the manufacturer. Plistix: IR Reflective – This would be applied after the refractory layer and used as additional help to keep the heat inside the work area of the forge. Is the colloidal silica and Kast-O-Lite 30 overkill? I am thinking I have read that the Kast-O-Lite could also be considered a “rigidizer”, but I could be wrong. Also, I am thinking I will have to apply the Kast-O-Lite to the first inch of Inswool, let it cure, and then apply it again once the second layer is placed? I ordered the Kast-O-Lite, Inswool, and Plistix. Got it promptly after ordering, thank you sir! Thanks for reading
  3. Thanks so much for the welcome! I am so excited to start a build. I am definitely going with a JABOD design, will figure out the fuel source next. Can't wait to experiment.
  4. Hey there, My name is Louis, I go by Lou or Louie. Thank you for allowing me to join the forums to read and learn! I don't know anything about blacksmithing. There is something primal about heating steel to orange/red hot, hammering it, and turning it into something else. Just following the gut, it lead me here. I'm wanting to build a small forge, most likely solid fuel, for my backyard. I've been reading about the 55 and the JABOD, those seem like good places to start. Going to keep reading to make sure I do everything safely. Thanks again!! -Lou