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I Forge Iron

Questions about first forge (my turn)


Enewguy

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So I built my first forge.

I REALLY wish I had found this sight before I did build it.  Because as Mikey (I think it was him) said in another post "the ignorance tax on forges and burners is quite steep".

The first picture is the forge. There's several things I wish I had done differently. Like not packing it with so much refractory cement. Not using an old air tank. Not "cementing" the bricks into the forge. However I think that one can be fixed in the future as they begin to breakup.

The second is of the forge side view.

The issues of the flames shooting out and so high have been addressed... (Kinda sorta maybe) I too used a YouTube design and beat myself up for messing it up. Then I found this sight and built a frosty t design with ease. Thanks again frosty. Turns out I didn't mess it up it was just a messed up design. Also the galvanized parts have been changed out to Black pipe.

So now the questions...

I am seriously considering using a concrete saw and chopping it in half. (Since I'm completely new to blacksmithing I really don't need a big long fancy forge right now, just something to start out with and practice.) Then reposition the burner of course. When I say concrete saw, some people call it a hot saw, or a rescue saw also. I have access to one that will cut both concrete and metal at once. Is that necessary? I'm wondering if it will help get rid of part of the heat sink issue I made. I know it will definitely lighten it up and make it easier to move around the shop as needed.

The supply line is rubber for now so I remove it after shutting down so the heat doesn't run up my burner tube and melt it. I plan on changing it to copper at a later time.

In the first picture it had been running for about 5 minutes before I put that piece in. It probably took about 5 minutes to get the metal cherry red. Does the inside of the forge look right for using brick without any coatings? It just don't feel like it's right.

The regulator I have is rated from 0-60psi. Not sure what I actually have it set at. There's not a gauge on it yet. I'm going to get one this weekend for it and put it on after New year's. (Going out of town) however here's another question on that one. Is an air pressure gauge and LP one the same? I looked at a few at tractor supply but they didn't say they were ok for LP so I passed. Since then I have found some say ok for air and LP.

Now here's a question that I just can't make sense of when you guys talk about it. It's been said on here that heat sinks (such as using such a thick wall of refractory like I did) use more fuel. The reason that makes no sense to my pea brain is 30psi for instance is still 30psi of flow into the forge. If the flame is a constant, why would it be a waste of fuel? It's still going to be putting the heat into the forge at the same rate. 

Thank you all in advance.


 

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Lol. I'm on the volunteer fire Dept at the township/City where I live. I'm the only one that doesn't live in town and since I'm one of a few guys that is medically qualified to run those calls get to keep a brush truck at my house.

Wouldn't do much good right now for a fire it's been winterized since it sits outside. NO water or even a pump on it.

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Uh. . . I think the emergency vehicle parked behind the forge is the best part of the series so far. :ph34r:

Your burner is burning WAY rich (see yellow billowy flames)

I believe your forge construction makes a great heat sink.

I'd just build another forge rather than try to salvage that one. It's not a horrible forge but splitting or whatever you're thinking of won't make it more effective.

Kaowool, castable refractory and kiln wash is just soooo easy and you don't need as much ppe as a concrete saw demands.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Anything used with propane regulator, gauges, hose etc. must be rated for it. For the heat sink issue the best way to explain it is the larger the heat sink the longer it takes the forge to come up to temperature, hence more fuel consumption. The flame does not directly heat the steel but it's heated by IR radiation/reflection.

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In the first pic, Does the interior look right for not having any kind of IR lining other than the brick?

The first pic is after I changed the burner, it no longer has the big billowing flames.

Edited by Enewguy
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