December 23, 20187 yr Hey guys! Tyler here, this is going to be my first propane forge build and I’ve done research and any input would be greatly appreciated! Here’s what I have in mind: 1) After removing the valve from the tank as well as the base ring and top ring around the valve. 2) I plan on cutting both ends off of the propane tank(the same amount off of each end) 3) Each end removed will be hinged, but will aslo have a smaller 4”x6” hole identical in each door as well 4) I plan on lining doors, tank with a double layer of 1”Inswool, will then coat with 1/4” of satanite, and a few coats of ITC 100 5) fire brick in bottom of forge, I have 2 Geode style burners ( given to me as gifts) I think they were bought off amazon, I was thinking they should enter the forge at 45 degree angle 6) was also given a 100lb propane tank to use for the forge Is there anything I should change? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated I have no experience in this so these are my plans after doing my own research thanks in advance!
February 24, 20197 yr Your plans look good to me, although I wouldn't waste the money on ITC 100. Instead I would use Plistix or Metrikote which work better and a whole lot less expensive. Wayne Coe (member here) can supply small amounts of both.
February 24, 20197 yr Ditto saving money by not buying IT-100, Matrikote or Plistex are better products. I highly recommend applying a rigidizer to the insulwool before covering with hard refractory. It will make it stiffer and contain the fibers which present a breathing hazard. Think mesotheleoma type lung damage. Hmmm? Fumed silica mixed with water and spritzed on wetted blanket works well. There are better application directions in "forges 101" Lose the fire brick floor, make the Satanite layer about 1/2"+ instead for the floor. It's plenty of armor and won'd suck up so much fuel heating up. Frosty The Lucky.
February 25, 20197 yr Lose the firebrick; it's just a heat sink. Spread a few pounds of Kast-O-lite 30 on the forge bottom instead.
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