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Daguy

looking for a post vise in the Grand Rapids, Michigan USA area.

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As stated in the thread title, I'm looking for a post vise in the Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA area, and I just wanted to check to see if there is anyone on the forum from this area that could tell me what values are around here.  I've run across one or two at auction and would like to know where to draw the line at say, something that is not necessarily pristine, maybe needs some cleanup or even minor repairs, but will be usable at that point.  If no one does, ce la vie, but you never know if you don't ask.  I realize this questionis very Generic, but just share anything you DO know on the subject. 

Thanks.

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I live in charlotte mi i purchased my last 6” vice from a guy in gr for 75 $ in working order

 

i would say 75-150$ if they know what they have and less if the seller is not into tools

or it be broken

 

du

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I generally buy vises that are missing the mounting bracket and spring as those are trivial to make and can cut the price down substantially.  What I do insist on is the screw and screwbox being in good shape.

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Check your PMs sent you a possible lead, would be a drive though. 4” vise and swage block for $130

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I picked up a Columbian Hardware Co 4" Leg vise for $55.00 at a local online auction.  Cleaned it up with a wire wheel on a 4" grinder and it works great.  The only thing missing was the spring, and I plan on making one of those.  Thanks for the lead, Stevomiller, but by the time I drove to belleville to pick up, the increased cost would have made that one too expensive.

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Awesome, glad you got one, and at a good price too!

For your spring, if you use old automotive spring steel,  once you are done shaping and forging, just heat a little above nonmagnetic and allow to air cool. Works perfect, no need to harden and draw a temper for this application, and also much easier to do and not mess up. 

In that ad I’m not sure if the swage block was included or not, or even if you had the desire or need of one.

 

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Irondragon that’s good to know, I never tried mild steel for the spring.

Do you normalize, or quench or any sort of thermal treatment with mild?

I do know that when I first used spring steel I did what I thought was a proper hardening and draw, but it still broke in use. My friend/mentor told me to just normalize it the next time, which I did, and it’s lasted. BTW that was using old Studebaker springs, i have no idea if they used 10 series or 5160 or what back in the 50”s 

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