jdustu Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Hey guys, I came across this site while searching for different copper working techniques. I'm doing some research on forming and joining copper in order to build a gas burning lantern/lamp. I'm pretty good with stainless, aluminum, and mild steel, but I've been asked to tackle this copper project and I'm excited about it despite my limited copper experience. I'm still debating whether I'm going to use tig , gas , or solder as the main form of bonding. I'm most comfortable with tig, but the desired look is more old school, so I'm not sure yet. I guess I've got a couple of questions to start with: What gauge should I used? It needs to be pretty hefty. Should I warm it up even before doing a simple bend? How much does it need to be annealed as it's worked, or will that be pretty obvious once I start messing with it? How can I attatch glass to it? I'm figuring on making clips, but it seems as though I've seen them where they look to be bonded to the copper. I've got a couple books on order that should be here next week too. Thanks in advance for any advice, I'll be sure to post pics as I move along! -Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firegirl Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 It might be easier to answer your questions if we had a sketch of your project, but here goes... 1. Gauge should be based on how much weight and use item will bear...18 or better I would say. 2. Simple bends in copper are fine without annealing so long as the copper didn't start at full hard. 3. The metal will tell you when it wants to be annealed. 4. I'd need to see the design before I could help with the glass question...sorry. Also, you may consider more traditional joinery and save the brazing for only the most important architectural and stress bearing points. A lot of old lanterns have decorative rivet work. Can't wait to see some pictures Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pascalou Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 Tig is well but personally I weld copper with the oxy-acethylenic (method "with the drop") after a good pre-heating the filler, I cut out it in sheet of the subject which I have has to make. I hope that you understand something with the text :confused: A+ P L :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdustu Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 It might be easier to answer your questions if we had a sketch of your project, but here goes... 1. Gauge should be based on how much weight and use item will bear...18 or better I would say. 2. Simple bends in copper are fine without annealing so long as the copper didn't start at full hard. 3. The metal will tell you when it wants to be annealed. 4. I'd need to see the design before I could help with the glass question...sorry. Also, you may consider more traditional joinery and save the brazing for only the most important architectural and stress bearing points. A lot of old lanterns have decorative rivet work. Can't wait to see some pictures Good Luck! I'll post a pic tomorrow of what I'm basing my project off of. Thanks. I'm guessing I may being using a variety of methods on this deal.Tig is well but personally I weld copper with the oxy-acethylenic (method "with the drop") after a good pre-heating the filler, I cut out it in sheet of the subject which I have has to make. I hope that you understand something with the text :confused: A+ P L Yeah, I just got a set of tanks but I need a better torch. I may try that. Are you saying that you cut thin strips of copper out of the sheet to use for filler? I'm thinking of getting de-oxidized filler metal, but we shall see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trying-it Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Attaching copper to glass - You may want to research a little on "Stained Glass/copper foil method". Copper foil is sticky on one side; you just peel off a paper backing, fold around glass edges and a little of both sides, burnish smooth with a wooden stick. All pieces with copper foiled edges are then lead soldered together (just like a Tiffany lamp shade). For the curious, yes I dabble in stained glass too. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdustu Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Ah, that always came up in my searches, but I never really looked into it. I can see where I could get that to work. I'm gonna post some pics in a minute of the lamp I'm trying to emulate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdustu Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Obviously the person who did this is very good at what they do. My wife's aunt sent me these pics asking if I could do something similar, and I'm always up for a challenge when it involves metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planisher Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and could not help but check out this thread. I make lamps and may be able to help a little. Traditionally a gas lamp is assembled with rivets as gas generates heat and over time will wear and weaken any soft solder (tin or lead base) but silver solder or braze (phos-copper) is higher temp and will stand up to environment. Welding is one way to go but it can take alot of patience, practice and skill for thin copper sheet its up to you. Copper is a wonderful material to work with and very forgiving. If you are use to SS and Alum. you may find very soft, and may not need to worry about annealing if all you are doing is bending and folding. Good luck:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdustu Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Cool deal, I may have to pick your brain some more when I get to putting in the actual burner. I'm pretty confident in my welding skills, and tigging it would be my first choice, I just want to make sure the lantern has the right "old style" look to it. I guess they are pretty hefty, would 1/16" sheet metal be about right? I've got to pick some stuff up pretty soon to start messing with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 If you are most comfortable with TIG then use it. tho I agree a Silver or Copper-Phos braise will be plenty. I love the design, IF you are close I may hire you to make 3 for my house remodel project, But for all I know you are in Russia, making shipping & import costs too high to even ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdustu Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 If you are most comfortable with TIG then use it. tho I agree a Silver or Copper-Phos braise will be plenty. I love the design, IF you are close I may hire you to make 3 for my house remodel project, But for all I know you are in Russia, making shipping & import costs too high to even ask. As much as I hated to do it, I ended up turning this job down. As I got further into my research, I realized that at every step of the way there was a new technique I'd have to figure out on my own through trial and error. Just bonding and forming the copper was one thing, but add in building the latches/hinges, the antiqued glass, the gas burner, ect. and it was too much. At this point, I don't have the time to put into it. I'm trying to establish my own welding business, and what I already do has been keeping me busy. There were certain time constraints, and I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew. Hopefully I'll be able to pursue some copper working again down the road. -Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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