Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Cast vertical forge

Jason Fry

Recommended Posts

I just poured the castable on a vertical forge. Used plibrico brand, 2400 degree rated. They have a 2700° I would’ve gotten if I had known about it at the time.  Internal diameter of the chamber is going to be about 7 inches, height 9 inches, calculated at 298 cubic inches. Rectangular door openings on each side, so I can pass through a long piece if I need to. Burner opening at the bottom. I cast the lid as a separate flat piece.



Got the molds out and then poured the bottom. Likely let it cure a few more days, then do a few lower temp test fires before starting the real work.



I've got a 3/4" venturi I plan to use until I get a blown burner built.  I'll use it for test/curing fires at least. 

For the room.... any particular coatings that would help in this case?  Would ITC or similar improve the performance?  I expect I'm trading durability for fuel consumption... Don't expect this one to be super efficient... going for bullet proof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can detune that burner enough to save your refractory where the flame impinges on it by simply increasing the amount of overhang the flame retention nozzle extends past the end of the mixing tube; fortunately, that burner's flame will soften as easily as it hardens. Then you can tune it harder a bit at a time, until it threatens your refractory, and back off a touch at that point. It is also fortunate that your forge design provides the maximum distance for the flame to transfer its energy into the refractory face.

A secondary flame will need secondary air to be inducted (by the primary flame) through the burner port. something like a flat washer, sliding back and forth on the burner's mixing permits you to control the amount of secondary air into your forge, so you can completely combust a given amount of propane, without an overabundance of air needlessly cooling your forge.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I understand what you mean... extend the length of the flare to throw it softer, and leave a bit of air space along the hole the burner goes in through the refractory. 

Given these limitations, would a blown burner serve me better?  That's on the list of things to do...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/5/2018 at 2:20 PM, Jason Fry said:

Given these limitations, would a blown burner serve me better? 

Possibly; more flame of lower temperature will save your refractory but at the price of a higher fuel bill. This is one of those situations, where the only truthful answer is...how does it look to you? Naturally, I would prefer to insist that you get Warmerbrothers hat before watching their cartoons, but wiser heads would give me the raspberry.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, the perils of trial and error learning.  The hand me down blower didn't push enough air to be useful.  I hooked up a 1/2" Mikey and ran a couple of heat cycles to boil off the steam out of the refractory.  After that, I switched over to a 3/4" Mikey and ran it up to welding heat.  Stuck two billets just fine.  Looks like it will work for the intended purpose, and should be more efficient after the Matrikote arrives from Wayne.  I still have one more forge to go, hopefully with a few less "I'll settle for that" and a few more "this is the right stuff." 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...