Jason Fry Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I just poured the castable on a vertical forge. Used plibrico brand, 2400 degree rated. They have a 2700° I would’ve gotten if I had known about it at the time. Internal diameter of the chamber is going to be about 7 inches, height 9 inches, calculated at 298 cubic inches. Rectangular door openings on each side, so I can pass through a long piece if I need to. Burner opening at the bottom. I cast the lid as a separate flat piece. Got the molds out and then poured the bottom. Likely let it cure a few more days, then do a few lower temp test fires before starting the real work. I've got a 3/4" venturi I plan to use until I get a blown burner built. I'll use it for test/curing fires at least. For the room.... any particular coatings that would help in this case? Would ITC or similar improve the performance? I expect I'm trading durability for fuel consumption... Don't expect this one to be super efficient... going for bullet proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Will you be doing any forge welding? I didn't see a way for excess flux to get out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Fry Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 This one's built for welding, but I intend to use kerosene for flux. Limited to Damascus billet welding, not blacksmith type stuff at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Yes; you desperately need a heat-reflective coating, and Wayne can supply it. Also, choose a burner design with a fairly large secondary flame, because a really hot burner will badly overheat that refractory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Fry Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 Thanks Mike. I have some Metrikote on the way from Wayne. Burner is a 3/4 built off your book design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 You can detune that burner enough to save your refractory where the flame impinges on it by simply increasing the amount of overhang the flame retention nozzle extends past the end of the mixing tube; fortunately, that burner's flame will soften as easily as it hardens. Then you can tune it harder a bit at a time, until it threatens your refractory, and back off a touch at that point. It is also fortunate that your forge design provides the maximum distance for the flame to transfer its energy into the refractory face. A secondary flame will need secondary air to be inducted (by the primary flame) through the burner port. something like a flat washer, sliding back and forth on the burner's mixing permits you to control the amount of secondary air into your forge, so you can completely combust a given amount of propane, without an overabundance of air needlessly cooling your forge. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Fry Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 I think I understand what you mean... extend the length of the flare to throw it softer, and leave a bit of air space along the hole the burner goes in through the refractory. Given these limitations, would a blown burner serve me better? That's on the list of things to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Fry Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 Scored a hand-me-down blower for the price of a couple gallons of gas. Got the iron parts from Lowes and started working on the burner setup, then got called in to work. Maybe tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 Work is good!---I keep telling myself that as I'm working unpaid OT Saturday and then got told late today Sunday too. At least I can work from home with my work laptop and my personal system both up and running! (and wearing and IFI T shirt!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 On 4/5/2018 at 2:20 PM, Jason Fry said: Given these limitations, would a blown burner serve me better? Possibly; more flame of lower temperature will save your refractory but at the price of a higher fuel bill. This is one of those situations, where the only truthful answer is...how does it look to you? Naturally, I would prefer to insist that you get Warmerbrothers hat before watching their cartoons, but wiser heads would give me the raspberry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Fry Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 Ah, the perils of trial and error learning. The hand me down blower didn't push enough air to be useful. I hooked up a 1/2" Mikey and ran a couple of heat cycles to boil off the steam out of the refractory. After that, I switched over to a 3/4" Mikey and ran it up to welding heat. Stuck two billets just fine. Looks like it will work for the intended purpose, and should be more efficient after the Matrikote arrives from Wayne. I still have one more forge to go, hopefully with a few less "I'll settle for that" and a few more "this is the right stuff." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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