sstalia Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 I am just begining to forge blades. I have had a lot of trouble with pitting and scaling. I am using a propane side arm burner in a bean can forge. What can I do to eliminate pitting and scaling? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Pitting and scaling is a tough case. Here are a few things that may help you sort it out; Anytime you heat metal until it starts to show color it scales on the surface. Unless of course you use an atmosheric controlled furnace,,In which case it will not scale while heating,,,but will when you take it out at heat. Gas forges can develop more scale, and especially if they are not tuned for the proper air/fuel mixture. The more times you heat the steel the moer scale it develops. When you hit steel with hammer and it has scale on the surface...or on the surface it is on,,,you drive the scale into the metal...when it falls out or you mechanically remove it you have a pit. Some things to try: Develop your hammering technique to get the very most out of moving hot metal before it is not hot enough to be working. Take a heavy wire brush and quickly brush the steel as soon as you take it from the forge and before hitting..Clean your anvil with same brush. Just prior to taking hot steel from forge. Check your forge for proper air/fual mix. Forge everything oversize so you can clean up all surfaces with a grinder,file etc. Make sure you know what steel you are using and make sure that it is proper for its intended useage. Remember this is fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Walk along the RR tracks *carefully* and see if you can find some coke mixed into the ballast. Crush it fairly fine and put a layer in the bottom of your forge. Play with the choke on your burner till you get some "dragon's breath" out the front of the forge---don't have a choke---build one! Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkdoc Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Wooden mallets "suck" the scale right off a piece, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 It may not be possible in a bean can forge, but try not to put the steel directly under the flame. In my whisper baby forge, I get a lot less scale putting the steel over to one side. :arrow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archie Zietman Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 I use charcoal, and get barely any scale. what scale I do get, I brush of lightly with a brass brush so it doesn't indent into the steel and pit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wadhams Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Scale can be a pain. Nevertheless it represents carbon leaving your steel. I think one loses somewhere around .03% of carbon PER HEAT! Now that may not seem like alot but remember, steel is going to lose it's heat quicker than that mild steel that you're so familiar with. Work quick and forge the blade as evenly as possible to reduce the number of heats. Here's a trick I use and love...Wet the anvil before forging. Now this may seem crazy and one would think that it would cool the blade too quickly but the scale flies off. I even wet the hammer head when I'm getting close to the end of the forging process. Oh yeah, don't get scared by the loud POP that you're going to hear. This method works for me and has saved me countless hours of polishing! Experiment and decide for yourself!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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