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Layout tables


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I have a 4'X4' welding/layout/chalkboard table 3/8" steel top, I've had it for25 yrs.
The top is no longer flat and I don't recall ever pounding on it.

I'd say go as big as you think you might need and space will allow (6'X12' wow!) and 1/2" top. But even my 4x4 is hard to move.

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A layout table is a luxury the space of my garage wont allow... until my brother gets his '76 Triumph TR6 convertible out of the other half ! The most unique layout table I've seen however was one with a pivot point so that a whole end of the table would rotate to the side for laying out stair railings where you could set the angle of the table to match the rise and run of the stairway being worked on. It was quite neat.

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I have a 4'x6' rolling table that serves as a layout/welding table with post pockets on 2 sides for vises(bench and pipe),bender,roller and a buffer set up to be used as needed. I have a smaller heavy table with a 6" post vise for forge work. For bigger stuff I use the floor or a set of 6 welding stands. I would love to have a welding platen but haven't run across a deal yet.

John

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I have a 4x4 table with 1/2" top that I made five years ago. It is used for everything from layout to welding, from a chalk board to lunch table. Couldn't get along without it even in my quite small space. Ideally, I would want a 4X6 with 1" top; but, space and budget make that only a dream for tomorrow.

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As big as you can get is what I would recommend, Also if you are making one try to find as flat a surface as you can. I have had peices come out not as square or even as I like just do to the fact that my welding table has warped over time. a 4x8 sheet of heavy steel would make a great surface but the size of your shop must be taken into consideration as well, you dont want to limit your forging area because your layout table is too big. Another recommendation I have if you have an oxy/act or plasma cutter is to make a seperate table with a heavy expanded metal surface or several wide plates welded so that the thinner edge is running up and down for cutting. I made one with expanded metal and a tub to catch the sparks thrown out from cutting. It decreased the mess around the shop from cutting and reduced the chance of a fire as well as making a convient replaceable table to cut on. I picked this idea up from welding class.

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Mines 5'x10' 3/4" plate welded on a 2x4 frame. I use it for lay out and welding. Its big enough that I can lay out railings and stuff, or when working on multiple smaller pieces I can have everything on the table and still have room to work. 3/4 plate gives it a good amount of mass for when I need to straighten or true long forged bars.

For gates and other larger items that I want square and flat, I have a 2"x4" .25"wall tube frame cart thats 12'x4' with no top on it. Made sure it was perfectly square and flat. Nice for clamping to and making temporary jigs for pickets etc. its on wheels so when not in use I roll it outside. For things a lot wider than 4' I just add temporary braces and a few more lengths of tube to make it the desired size and since the Cart is square and flat it makes it very easy.

Been contemplating changing over to some adjustable sawhorses, but having the cart on wheels makes it nice when I need to move a project out of the way.

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  • 2 months later...

Finally got all the parts and have started building my layout/jig table. Size is 3'x9' made of four .25 inch plates. They'll be bolted to the supports (flat heads), then (as time permits) .5 inch holes on 1.5 inch centers. The whole thing stands on 8 screw scaffold jacks to level the table. Will post pictures soon...

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What size and kind of layout table do you guys use or would like to have if you had the space for one in your shop ? And is it used only for layout or for a combination of tasks like welding etc.


Mike Tanner


Due to space restrictions, my table is definitely multi-tasking ;) My dream table is 5' x 10' x at least 3/4" thick on a frame with 3 ga 4 x4 tubing legs. I want it to be very heavy to allow bending tasks without having to bolt the table to the floor. The top would overhang the base frame 6" on all sides with rounded corners for safety. (Murphy lives next door and visits incessantly.) I would have a shelf that runs the long way on both sides just under the top for easy tool access. Below that, perhaps some big drawers or bins for tool storage. Further space could be used for stock storage Can't let all that empty space go to waste lol
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My big layout table is the floor of the other stall of the garage. Neither stall has seen a car since I moved in, one of the terms of my willingness to move. This table doubles as a chalkboard, and I also tune my bicycle and fix my lawn tractor on it.

But for small stuff, which is 90% of what I play with, I got a 2-ft long piece of 15 X 2 channel from the scrap yard, back when they used to sell their stuff to hacks like me. This sits on my multi-purpose workbench. It works well as a chalkboard, welding table, and I store my measuring tools under it.

One thing I still kick myself over is that at the other scrap yard that used to sell things to hacks like me, he had some 3/4" plate with 3/4" (if I remember correctly) holes drilled through it around 2" apart. He had all sorts of sizes up to around 2-ft X 4-ft. That would have been a great little surface, complete with all the dog holes I could need.

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Gents,

This table in my shop is 4 ft x 8 ft and fabricated out of 5/8 steel plate. Photo attached. There are Qty 6, 2 inch sockets located on the perimeter (reese hitch dimension). The sockets will accomodate all manner of attachments, bridges for hold downs, upright stantions for a post vise or a swage holder. Versitality is what you are looking to achieve. Do not skimp on the legs, heavier the better. Make certain to edge frame with some HD rectangular tubing, this will stiffent the flat surface and prevent any deflection. Note that moving these type tables is a task. Approximate weight, less any attachements, is close to 900 LBS. It is a tremendous work surface.

6096.attach

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