evfreek Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Hi. I came upon this interesting link.Heat Treatment To summarize, the document advocates quenching in brine, interrupting the quench at 900F (no color), air cooling, then slow cooling from 400F or so on down. I tried this, and was not able to get my steel to harden (pallet strapping and bandsaw blade). The alloy is hardenable, as the pallet strapping tested out at about 50-60 points of carbon (not 1095!!!!). Interestingly enough, when I annealed the steel in ashes (dead soft), there was a hard spot where the tongs gripped it. According to the explanations and the TTT diagram, the technique should work. It is very similar to marquenching or Intensiquenching. Has anybody had any experience with this technique, either positive or negative. :confused: Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 What temperature was the quench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted February 15, 2008 Author Share Posted February 15, 2008 Hi Matt. It was about 100F. Just warm. About 7% brine. Maybe it was too warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 How did you determine the austinetic point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted February 16, 2008 Author Share Posted February 16, 2008 How did you determine the austinetic point? Magnet trick, then heat a little bit longer. OK, I realize that it is not that great, but I cannot see recalesense (sp?) very well. And the magnet trick works just fine for heat treating chisels. Should I have used a tempilstik? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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