fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Hey guys, i just got asked to make a viking style axe for someone and im trying to figure out what size material i should go with, i was thinking 2in round should work as it will be a relatively small axe, around 3lbs or less, and a edge around 6in. so, does a 2in round bar of 4140 sound like a good choice? or do you have any other recommendations. thanks Noel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Is this a wood chopping axe or a weapon axe? "Viking" doesn't specify! Save for the Danish great axes fighting axes are usually *lighter* than chopping ones as heavy = slow and slow = dead on the battle field. a 3# axe will be heavier than most swords of the period for instance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Just now, ThomasPowers said: Is this a wood chopping axe or a weapon axe? "Viking" doesn't specify! Save for the Danish great axes fighting axes are usually *lighter* than chopping ones as heavy = slow and slow = dead on the battle field. a 3# axe will be heavier than most swords of the period for instance. Lol, that's a very good question... The person aparently will be mainly using it as a decoration, but wants it to,be the real deal( their words not mine) This is the pic they sent as an example Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Ahh making it to their fantasy rather than based on an original. (and yes I am smiling) Will you be doing a fold and weld or a slit and drift for the eye? Will you be using real wrought iron and a steeled edge? Will you actually be charging enough!? I would be using real wrought iron for the body and 1050-1084 for the edge---or a pattern welded edge. 4140 is a bit lower carbon than I would use; but easier to source/work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Just now, ThomasPowers said: Ahh making it to their fantasy rather than based on an original. (and yes I am smiling) Will you be doing a fold and weld or a slit and drift for the eye? Will you be using real wrought iron and a steeled edge? Will you actually be charging enough!? I would be using real wrought iron for the body and 1050-1084 for the edge---or a pattern welded edge. 4140 is a bit lower carbon than I would use; but easier to source/work. im going to make it a little more realistic than the picture sent, but i plan on slit and drifting it.. while i can forge weld, im not comfortable welding a piece that large. and while i realize that 4140 may not be the best steel for edge holding, since it will be a wall hanger mostly i figure that it should hold up well enough, and i would rather it be tougher rather than harder if they do ever decided to do something with it. i will however be looking for a piece of like 1080, 1075 etc to use instead, but right now i have a source for the 4140 so that is at least a backup plan. and i think im charging enough, priced out my materials/ time and went off of that... does 200 sound about right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Is this a new item for you to forge? If so expect to need to make more than one. I can't set a price on your time for you. I work with a lot of scrap and just sourced a HUGE rock breaker bar, old school, that will probably go for items needing a lot of medium-high C plain steels. Really need to get the powerhammer running to work it though...my wife was not enthused to be holding the cold end of a 12' long 4"x5/16" strap I was working last night. (Though after 32 years married to me she is probably resigned...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 This style is new, but I've made similar.... And I just remembered some,scrap that might work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 I would use flat bar instead of 2" round....do you have a power hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Just now, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: I would use flat bar instead of 2" round....do you have a power hammer? Why flat bar? And yep, actually setting it up tommorow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 It is closer to the finished shape, so less work. 2" diameter is a lot of pounding to get down to size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Just now, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: It is closer to the finished shape, so less work. 2" diameter is a lot of pounding to get down to size. What size would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 I have not made one myself, but I would guess that starting with stock the size of the poll/butt would be a good start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Just now, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: I have not made one myself, but I would guess that starting with stock the size of the poll/butt would be a good start. So maybe something closer to 1.5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 1" x 1.5" x 4" will probably be enough after drawing out the blade. But it all depends on the finished size. You won't know until you try making one. There are plenty of videos on Youtube for Viking, and other axes. See what they use, and the steps they use to get the shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedCustoms Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Are you piercing and drifting the eye? If so I would use the 2" 4140 but I would trim the starting weight down to around 1.75 lbs for the style in the photo. If its a one time deal hammering it out from say 2"d x 3"lg won't hurt you but if it's going to be an everyday thing I would be looking for 3/4-1" x 2" to save a lot of hammering. The style axe in the photo should be fast in the hand. It will feel a lot better at a finish end weight of 1.5lbs or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 and yes folks often over estimate the weight of medieval weaponry by a *lot*. Partly due to movies where things may be sized up to look more impressive---take a look at horseman's hammers in the museum vs what Hollywood would like us to believe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishfinder401 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 26 minutes ago, TwistedCustoms said: Are you piercing and drifting the eye? If so I would use the 2" 4140 but I would trim the starting weight down to around 1.75 lbs for the style in the photo. If its a one time deal hammering it out from say 2"d x 3"lg won't hurt you but if it's going to be an everyday thing I would be looking for 3/4-1" x 2" to save a lot of hammering. The style axe in the photo should be fast in the hand. It will feel a lot better at a finish end weight of 1.5lbs or less. That was the plan, and this is a 1 time thing... Or close to it... Going to use the extra metal from it for hammers. But I'll see if I can find a 1x2 piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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