This is my attempt at a RR spike hawk. I had some trouble with the drift. I made the drift about a week ago. I don't know if it was from the tool or placement. Any criticism is very welcome. 

Very nice first hawk.  Wish mine had looked that good.

I've made a couple of spike hawks recently so I can see what your issues might be.  They aren't all that easy, mostly because the spike isn't really correctly sized to make a hawk without some modification.  Of course that is what we are supposed to be doing as smiths...

Recommend that you upset the spike a bit before slitting it (you are slitting it or slot punching to maximize the material for the eye right?).  Upsetting the spike is a pain, but will give you some more mass where you need it.  I also recommend that you modify your drift/mandrel so it isn't round shaped.  Hawks have a number of different shaped eyes, historically, but I think the round one is the least useful (hawk can rotate with hard use) and aesthetic.  Of course that is just me, and there certainly are some round eyes out there.  A nice design is the "point forward" egg crossection.

You also need to think more in terms of using the drift as a mandrel.  As you are opening the eye you should try to pull the cheeks down toward the handle end  with your crosspeen.  If you look at the section as you are doing this it will allow you to slightly adjust the eye location in the stock to cure some off centeredness (or make it worse, as I have found to my dismay at times).

All in all, nice job.  You did a better job keeping the spike head end intact than I do, probably because I spend so much time working on upsetting the mass just below it.

I think their is a disconnect on historical Hawks and Hollywood. Historical Hawks are quite small, and spikes have penty of mass for that, slitting certainly is the answer, but one needs to work the eye over the mandrel to pull down some stock to widen the socket, 3/8" is simply to thick for the sides, wile 7/8" cheeks arn't enugh.

as to eye shape, the round eye works as one can take off the head and use it as an ullu, wile the tear drop is sertainly easer to fit, as that is the shape a split billit starts out (tho one can't depend on the pick style eye to keep the head from flying off). 

Nice blade shape, but the eye is so short (top to bottom) that your hawk has very little to keep it straight on the handle. Charles is right, that you need to work some material down to widen the socket.

There was something I heard recently (was it on a Daniel Lea video?) about how an eye drift isn't the same as a drift for ornamental ironwork. With the latter, you're just using the drift to stretch the hole to its final dimension, whereas with the former, you're using the drift as an "internal anvil" to help with the shaping of the metal around the eye.

Great info. Thank you. I did upset to get the mass for the beard but didn't think to beef up the socket.