Not quite done, I would like to wrap flat stick around the top and add some flare. I'm getting married in a week tho so that's bin taking up my time lately. Anyways just wanted to show my progress . after cutting up the railroad tie I used boiled linseed oil to seal the ends. Screwed the upright ties to the bace and ran threaded rid through it.  I haven't sucred it to the ties yet either I was thinking flat stock heated up and pounded  fold over the anvils feet.  Any thoughts or criticism is welcome. Thanks guys! 

 

Looks solid! Whereabouts in western mass are ya? I live in Granby.

I thought I did so take two 

Is that chain to quiet the anvil or just to haul it? If you bolt/strap the anvil to the  base tightly, that will kill the ring better and your hammering will be more effective. 

On 10/2/2016 at 2:35 PM, Fuzz557 said:

 

Generally speaking, anvils work better right side up. That chain might get in the way of your forging, too. Just a suggestion. 

18 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Generally speaking, anvils work better right side up. That chain might get in the way of your forging, too. Just a suggestion. 

I thought something was slightly off but couldn't for the life of me put my finger on it. I have since bolted down the chain. it helped with the ring a bit 

The chain is used to reduce the vibration of the anvil, and therefore reduce the ring. A 1000 pound light weight chain will work with just a couple of loose wraps and some bailing wire to hold the ends together, or a set (one) tire chain. The idea is to keep it loose on the waist of the anvil to absorb any vibration. Use the heavy log chain for other things. 

A couple of metal straps to secure the anvil to the stump should do the same thing, kill the vibration and kill the ring of the anvil.

I agree with JHCC that the anvil upside down, feet in the air would be a bit difficult to forge on. BUT, You purchased the WHOLE ANVIL so why not use the WHOLE ANVIL. The curve between the feet is one radius, the curve between the feet and the waist is another radius, the curve under the horn is a third radius and the curve under the heel is a forth radius. Flip the anvil to whichever radius you need and it now becomes a multiple radius swage block. You can use short pieces of angle iron driven into the rr tie at the feet to keep the anvil from walking about and still allow the anvil to be moved or flipped and used as a swage. Angle iron SHOULD NOT extend above the edge of the anvil for safety reasons.

Also note that, this being a Mousehole anvil, the sharp-ish ridge on the underside of the horn creates an inverted-V fuller.