This is my first knife. It is from and old file, handle is black walnut. I didn't polish it well but it holds a good edge.

Good work, a very practical, using knife. I've yet to complete a knife, so every time I see a "first" knife I'm encouraged.

to use a brand new file, you never know what kind of stress an old file has taken. Make sure it doesn't have any nickel or valedeim, or chromium as the expensive files do or it will melt at forging temps.

Interesting point ballpeen. Over here though we generally prefer to use old files as the steel is usually suitable for cutlery, which most modern files aren't.

I've done a bunch of work with old files; blades, firesteels, etc., and I've never had a failure (yet ).

A close inspection before you start forging will usually reveal any serious flaws. If you notice and cracks or other problems early on, either grind the flaw out, or chuck it on the scrap pile.

For blades, go with an oil quench. And watch your heat. Don't get it too hot, and don't forge it too cold. This is high-carbon, not mild steel.

Old files are God's gift to the financially challenge blacksmith. Use 'em (or just send 'em to me... )

Don

Make sure it doesn't have any nickel or valedeim, or chromium as the expensive files do or it will melt at forging temps.

what do you mean melt? many good blade steels have all 3 addition's?

A close inspection before you start forging will usually reveal any serious flaws. If you notice and cracks or other problems early on, either grind the flaw out, or chuck it on the scrap pile.
Don

I seem to recall reading that a bladesmith uses slightly cracked springs and such in folded axes and damascus where the forge welding will seal up the cracks. And of course, like Don said, proper heat treating and forging is key or you will induce cracks no matter what steel you use.

As for using new files, while I haven't looked into prices, logic would tell me that it's cheaper to buy the steel new than pay for a good file just to use in a knife.

I also seem to recall that many of the alloys used in knife steels require lower temperatures to forge and reach welding temperature faster. Therefore there is no true "forging temp". If you treat it like mild steel and toss it in the forge for as long and as hot as you would for it, of course it's going to burn. The key is paying attention to the metal's colours and plasticity at each colours. Of course, what you see isn't always what you have for a temp as the colours change depending on the ambient lighting.

Actually,

It is highly unadvisable to use "new" files for blades. Most new files are case-hardened, not the good old highcarbons of the past. You really have no idea of whether or not the new file was case-hardened or not. The only safe files to assume are still 1095 are Nicholson files. Plus, for the cost of a new "good" file, (that is a good file and would be better put to use as its intended function, a file) you can purchase new steel stock of known alloy, which for making blades is the best choice.

Also, "Make sure it doesn't have any nickel or valedeim, or chromium as the expensive files do or it will melt at forging temps, " is just not true. Alloy steels such as 5160, which as chromium for extra hardenability, are completly forgable, even forge-weldable, and do not "melt." 15N20 has nickle in it, and it doesnt "melt" at forging temps, or forge-welding temps for that matter. Do some research before posting incorrect information. Alloys can be harder to work with, and can require some alloy-specific techniques when working them (regarding temperature control in the working ranges) and especially in heat-treatment, but they do not "melt" and are completly usable and produce very good blades.

Old files are a safer bet for blades, as far as chances of not being case-hardened. The best choice is of course to buy new stock. But an old file can still produce a darn good knife. As always, a close inspection is necessary before using an old file for a blade, and when working with old files or junkyard steels, always keep it in the back of your mind that the blade might fail due to some unknown/unforseen flaw/crack somewhere. But, might as well use them if you have them, I do on occasion.

I have about 50 used files from where I used to work. I will keep useing them as it is free steel to practice on. I have not had any problems with them yet, even making fire steels and water quenching has not resulted in any cracks or failures.