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I Forge Iron

ballpeen

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  1. You probably know this but some don't. I don't have the experience but I like to find out from those who do. If you want steel that will hold a great edge you want high carbon. The last 2 numbers of the steel # tell how much carbon is present in hundreths. 1045 has .45% carbon added to the iron. the overall hardness is dependent on 2 things. the amount of carbon in your steel and how you heat treat. Annealing, hardening, and tempering. and depending on what metal you use, changes the materials you use. Salt water, blood, and urine sometimes for quenching, and sometimes 10w30 motor oil, it all depends on what you want. motor oil is good for high carbon steel. 1090 is good for pocket knives that need a great edge. annealing is softening the metal and getting the stress out and needs to be done after rough forging and before you start anything. to get the stress out from your initial work. I recommend Darrel Markewitz of the Wareham Forge blacksmithing and bladesmithing DVDS. He goes through everything thoroughly and his prices are resonable. I am going to take his blacksmithing/bladesmithing course in May. He specializes in Norse era history, blades, and numerous artistic pieces, all by hand, all traditional, and ancient techniques he employs. He has worked with the Smithsonian and other museums in the reproduction of many blades and tools from the 1000 c.e. time and his DVD's have taught me a lot.
  2. Don't stop forging, you have got the stuff.
  3. to use a brand new file, you never know what kind of stress an old file has taken. Make sure it doesn't have any nickel or valedeim, or chromium as the expensive files do or it will melt at forging temps.
  4. Although I am new to blacksmithing/bladesmithing I have done a lot of looking into anvils, as I just bought one myself. If you don't want to give yourself a head ache all day, go with forged instead of cast. Casts' ring is very loud You may be doing light door work right now, but may want to go heavier someday;give yourself some room either way is my advice. For example I went with a 155ibs Peter Wright anvil. The best in a lot of blacksmiths minds, including mine. Peter Wright made anvils from 1850-1886 in England and his anvil design was and is still considered the best. Long horn is great for artistic work and the softer iron base welded top of tool steel is better than the old 6 piece style in terms of wear and tear any day. The 155 ibs range gives you versatility for traveling w/anvil and ability to do medium sized work as well as the light door work you enjoy now. The weld between the tool steel and iron must be checked by testing the C range ring of the anvil w/ a light ball peen hammer from about8-10 in. above the table where the table is directly supported wiron base, for the bounce of the hammers' own weight only. If you hold it 8 in above, let it fall and it has a good ring that isn't real short in duration and hammer bounces 80-100% back up to the height you dropped it at, your anvil is good. If it doesn't bounce well the two pieces of metal are vibrating against eachother. 2-3 US dallars is what you might expect to pay per ib for a good anvil. Surface damage is up to the individual on what they will put up with in my estimation. Make sure the anvil is sitting on wood when you test the ring and bounce, or it will be muffled and won't give you an accurate test.
  5. I am new to blacksmithing/bladesmithing. I use a coal forge and know how important ventilation is; I figure on 10in. sheet metal piping for the chimney and inverted pyramid style hood to trap as much smoke as possible. I got the idea of counterweighting the hood, so I can change the hood height for optimal smoke uptake when needed, from Darrell Markewitz of the Wareham Forges, but need ideas on the best way to fix the setup. I know I need 4 ft of elevation above the apex of the roof, and 12in of space between where the smoke goes out of the chimney and the rain guard, right? I need knowledge of the best materials to use for the hoodchimney construction also I live in Lexington Ky. So if you live close or know someon who does let me know, cause I could use some advice on finding good local coal I can pick up
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