Gazz Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I was gifted this fire pot recently and while I have a gas forge to use, I think this might be useful. I have a square of 1/4" plate that I am thinking about cutting a hole in to drop the fire pot into but have not been able to come with a satisfactory solution on how to deal with the "dips" in the pot. These I am guessing, are there to allow long pieces of stock to move freely in and out of the fire and to keep them low in the hot spot. Do I cut and fabricate a similar trough in the pan? Do I make it so that there two surfaces meet flush so there is no edge to catch on? How were this type of fire pot mounted in the past? I should know this. I worked in a shop that had a large forge and the pan had this kind of opening in its lip but I don't recall how the fire pot mated up to it nor if the pot had the same features as this one. I know there was lots of refractory cement used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 My solution was to use angle iron inserts. I happened to have pieces already made in stainless for another project which fit the opening perfectly with basically no modification. The gaps are such that they will allow for the forge pot to expand with heat as needed but still tight enough that hot ash is unlikely to fall through. Others will recommend riding on the lower shoulder so the fire is not so low relative to the table--and either live with the raised flange or brick the surface of the forge under the upper flange. It's a preference issue where I'm sure everyone feels their choice is the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackdawg Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 My firepot was similar with the drop down, I built it so it is a certain depth one way, then when I turn it 90 degrees in the frame it drops down and the frame covers the end gaps making for a deeper pot. After using it a bit, I decided I like it deeper, but also like the easier access, so I ended up with a piece of angle iron across one opening, and using the other opening as the side I add the steel from. Very early days for me, but it is working ok for me! First picture is with fire pot across the frame, shallower depth, second picture dropped in to the frame for the deeper depth (frame acting as back of fire pot) . Last photo is with a bit of steel welded across the back and the front left open as described. With the steel welded in I dont have to worry about it moving away from the frame and possibly letting the back of my fire fall out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 A stump jumper off an old bush hog makes a great forge table. Just mount 3 3/4" floor flanges and cut a hole in the center. The walls are already there. I welded angle iron under the hole so that the fire pot dropped down and was flush with the surface of the stump jumper. You can probably pick up a stump jumper at a tractor repair shop. Where are you located? I have a couple here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stash Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 I set my pot on the lower dip, so the it set higher above the table. I surrounded the raised pot with fire brick and 'pointed the gaps with fire clay. Works well for me. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazz Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 I think your idea of setting it on the lower lip is good. Your suggestion to use firebrick and/or fire clay or maybe refractory cement to build up the rest is good. Thanks for the offer of the stump jumper pan Wayne but I'm a bit to far away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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