Best Finish for Steel Clad Wooden Table

[olfart]

Although this isn't directly blacksmithing-related, it is a new workbench in my little blacksmith shop.  I built it from 2 X 6, 2 X 10 and 2 X 12 scraps and leftovers, the top being mostly 2 X 12s.  I built it specifically to fit an old sign I've had in the barn for 35 years or so that I am using as a fire-resistant covering for the wood.  The sign is 70" X 20", so that's the size of my workbench top.  The sign had at least 4 different paint layers on it, the last saying "Helen's Plaster & Bill's Saw Shop".  Having sanded/wire brushed all the paint off of it, now I'm wondering what is the best finish for the steel table top that will be somewhat exposed to the weather in my open-sided shop.  My first guess is Ospho as a primer followed by flat black stove paint to protect the metal from moisture.  Considering that it may also double as a layout bench for small projects and may occasionally have hot steel placed on it, is there a better finish I should use?

[ThomasPowers]

Since you must be living in the desert like myself I wouldn't do anything past the primer. I don't think stove paints are designed for exterior use anyway.

[olfart]

1 minute ago, ThomasPowers said:

Since you must be living in the desert like myself I wouldn't do anything past the primer. I don't think stove paints are designed for exterior use anyway.

Oops... I thought I had put my location in my profile.  Texas is a BIG place, and I'm on the extreme far end from you near Texarkana.  Unfortunately this is anything but desert-like with average humidity running in the 85% - 95% range most of the year.  We're surrounded by pine trees, and each mature pine tree pumps out about 100 gallons of water a day into the atmosphere.  New steel rusts before I can get it home.

 

[Daswulf]

I have had good results using duplicolor engine paint. It goes straight on the bare metal after it's been cleaned and degreased. Holds up well for me. Being a work table about any paint will get scratched up tho. 

[olfart]

Yes, I expect it to get scratched up from use, just trying to prevent it from rusting up and blowing away before my very eyes.  The engine paint sounds like a pretty good solution.  Made for high temps yet durable under extreme conditions.

 

[ThomasPowers]

So you're up near the ABS school!  Lucky guy.    Could be worse, you could be down on the Gulf and get salt along with the humidity and the odd hurricane.  Most car stuff is rated for pretty tough duty---why I was going to suggest just primer and then you could lay out designs on it with chalk or soapstone or pencil.

[olfart]

I'd be even luckier if I could afford the tuition to attend the ABS classes!  However, I'm blessed to have found a club of blacksmiths who are patient enough to let me look over their shoulders. 

The layout with soapstone/chalk/pencil was why I was considering the flat black stove paint, but that may also work with the engine paint.

[Daswulf]

They have flat black engine paint. Never tried soapstone on it but I would think chalk would probably work on it. 

[olfart]

OK, I'll see what my local auto supply house has in stock.

Thanks!

 

[olfart]

Being unable to find flat black engine paint locally, I settled for a lovely Ford blue.  At least this way it will look similar to my forge that I had painted blue some months back.  I may end up using dry erase markers for layout on the blue IF the marker doesn't wipe off every time I lay something on it.