MonkeyForge Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I finally found a container for my ceramic wool. (could only find aluminium stove pipe and chromed stainless steel tubing for awhile). And I wanted to share my progress, see what you think. The shell is an old flour bucket, 22 CM diameter 30 cm deep. I cut it lengthwise. On the inside I put 2 layers of 2.6 Cm ceramic wool (128 Kg/Cubic M), rigidezed, cured and then kiln washed (rigidizer/water, 75% zirconium silicate, 25% Kaolin clay) after air drying the kiln wash I fired up the forge. After that the inside had set and I applied another layer of the wash. For a floor I use a ceramic kiln shelf coated with the same wash. (which is 1 cm thick, I will replace it with 0.5 cm thick shelf) The burner is the 1/2 inch T burner that I built earlier. I wanted to go with a vaulted design but ended up with something between vaulted and oval because I needed to fit the 2 layers of wool all around. I am still playing around with the burner position, I put it a bit to far back but I should be able to aim it a bit forward still. The first 10 minutes the back 2/3 are even heat and the front a bit cooler. after about 20/30 minutes I can use the front to get to forging temp as well. Pop rivets are my new favorite fastener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Looks pretty good, how do you like it? With the back closed a better alignment for the burner would be closer to the front angled slightly to the back. It's not really an issue and too late to change now. I have a bunch that are a little off or backwards and yours looks like it works fine. Some of mine were just efficient ways to use up good material. Nice job. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyForge Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 I like it the fact that it takes some time to heat all the way to the front is ok. I prefer long stock, work the end and cut. Use my hands, rather than tongs, if I can. If I have something shorter I can use tongs. When I get the thinner kiln shelf in I'll have a bit more space for the work piece and for hot burning gas. The shell gets pretty hot pretty fast (it's pretty thin) but that is ok since I am not touching it. All in all for a first attempt (after the brick forges) I'm quite happy with the outcome. I might get some dragons breath pictures tomorrow, just for completeness. (and because pictures of fire) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyForge Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 As promised, some pictures of fire. I made a couple of knife blanks (not very pretty but I will show later). I only have some thin stock at the moment (see picture) but after leaving it in the fire chamber for about 2 minutes it is a yellow hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Looks good from here. The dragon's breath is a little orange so it's burning a little rich. Rich will keep it from scaling in the forge but is producing higher CO levels, Install a CO monitor and mind the ventilation, CO (Caron Monoxide) is a silent killer. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyForge Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Frosty: CO monitor is always a good idea, though I only use the forge outside in the open air. (which is challenging in rainy country). I have been able to forge quite a bit lately, mostly knife blanks and just practising drawing/tapering. I have been using an old sledge hammer as anvil, as well as a paving tile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Paving tile? Sledge hammer heads work just fine for an anvil, especially for blades. Anvils that size have been used for such for thousands of years. I tend to always mention CO and monitors to new gas forge users. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyForge Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 The face of the hammer needed flattening the tile was heavy and flat. I flattened the hammer face since, works a charm now I'm drifting away from the topic here ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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