AdamG Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Hi all, I'm just getting my garage going, with a typical 20 lb propane tank forge, tiny 50 lb anvil and some other stuff. I know there are a few things to fix up on this forge, but it's a start. I haven't been able to weld in it at all (couple of failed attempts at san mai). It's got a layer of perlite and waterglass, covered by 2" of ceramic wool, then fire clay and Metrikote. The inside volume seemed big so I put another layer on the ceiling and re-coated it. There is also a back door on a top hinge (lined with hard fire brick and Metrikote) and the front door is a sliding hard fire brick painted with Metrikote. The burner is homemade (8" 3/4 pipe, with T fitting and MIG tip (35 I think), no blower. The air flow was feeling a bit restricted, so today I took off the T side and it roared! However, it might be a bit lean now, but I'm not sure. I haven't run the burner outside of the forge. Previously it had a 3" nipple and coupler with a cover/door that rotated to block the intake. The flare tip is stainless and after I shut down the forge, the flare tip 'tinks' as scale flakes off from insideIMG_4506.MOVIMG_4506.MOV. I haven't sealed the burner against the tube, which is probably important too. I was able to forge well enough, but I'm wondering if you guys can suggest any changes (other than or in addition to a T-Rex burner, but they are expensive to get from Canada). Cheers, Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamG Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 I've been trying to upload a video that shows more, but each time it seems to fail. Part of my reason for asking is that it seems I have a good hot zone where the flame comes in (left side) but the rest of the forge wasn't as hot as I'd like it to be. https://youtu.be/h0jrRDTapT8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Read the stickies marked with green at the top of this forum section. Then we can talk. From what I can see and from what I read You are not on the same page as the other people who want to help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Welcome aboard Adam, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many IFI folk live within visiting distance. Is that a compressor running in the background of the video? Take Charlotte's advice and read the gas forge section here, you've included almost no useful information in your question and without good questions we can't be of much help. However, I'll try anyway. Who's burner build plans did you use? How closely did you follow them? What are the burner's particulars? I have NO comment on how you lined your forge, it's volume is important though. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamG Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Uh, ok, I'll have a look and read some more. I started this forge and the burner before coming across this forum. This adventure started with an interest in straight razors and some other bladesmithing. Now I'm forging blanks and learning some blacksmithing (tongs etc). I'm in Calgary, Alberta, Canada (3,000 ft altitude or so). See http://straightrazorplace.com/forge/126398-finally-getting-going-again.html The burner was based on Zoeller's sidearm design but I couldn't find exactly the same parts so I used what I could find. I guess what I was looking for was feedback on whether it looked likely to be lean/rich/restricted, or general feedback on what you could see. Yes, that's a compressor running in the background. I have been building a small air hammer as well, and was trying it out that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamG Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 The inside is roughly D shaped (flat on the bottom) with a volume of about 375 ci or less I think (about 6" wide by not quite 6" tall inside, by about 10" long inside). The front doorway is sloped down a bit before the opening, and then closed off by the hard fire brick door. The back door is about 2"x3" and closed off by the same hard fire brick painted with Metrikote. I found most of my parts at a ceramic supply and a plumbing supply shop but the insulation wasn't kaowool, it was another brand. I'm guessing the 6 lb version. I would like to line the bottom with ceramic kiln shelf brick so it doesn't wear out too badly if I flux with borax. I may try another burner design (Frosty T) but I am trying to focus on forging rather than shop setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Alright, we can work with that! Larry's sidearm burners work very well once tuned. 375 cu/in is a bit much for a 3/4" burner Typically 300-350 cu in is in the 3/4" burner's welding temp range. What parts couldn't you find to make the Sidearm? There are a lot of brands of ceramic wool refractory and most are equivalent, I just call them all Kaowool because I don't have to remember the others. It's not for a preference in product, it's what's available here is all so it's the name I remember. 3.,000' elevation will tend to make one of my 400' elevation burners run rich but that's just a matter of tuning, nothing fundamental about the burners. It's hard to see the dragon's breath from your forge so it's hard to say what the air:fuel mix looks like to me. If you take a pic from the side so I can see it against a dark or dim background I can get an idea of how its burning. Being able to hear it is a good indicator as well. I don't run a pipe forge anymore but I like vault forges, D shaped or mail box shapes all the same basic thing. The flat floor has a lot of good points to it. We'll get you tuned up, no worries. There are a couple few good threads running right now, a couple about burners that have gotten pretty intense, at least to a guy who's into burners. Mike Porter has recently taken an active role in upping our game in naturally aspirated burners, Mike is your hot rod formula 1 burner kind of guy and I'm the pickup truck utility burner kind of guy. We've been having a pretty good time. Mike's also done quite a bit of research into forge liners and there are a couple good discussions about refractories and why they work the way they do. We're having a pretty good time, join the fun. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Adam, Your still shots looked pretty discouraging, but the yellow enterior shown in the video is much more encouraging. Not only is that standard "T" wrong for Larry Zoeller's modified side arm burner, but it is positioned out of line; a problem that you cannot remedy with a threaded part. The best solution for all your burner problems is to salvage some of the pipe fittings, and build a "T" burner instead; it is the only burner design I know of that can overcome faulty threaded cast fittings, and is a more powerful burner anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Ups! I forgot my old burners used a few threaded parts, and were built so that the gas jet could be aimed (which is how I got around that problem). for years I've replaced pipe with tubing, and updated all the other parts for better quality control (and better looks). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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