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I Forge Iron

Tool altering and polishing


Tiapan

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So I have been hard at work improving some of my gear and making it more purpose ready. Here are some before and after pics. Cross pine was just reshaping and rounding of edges. The sheet metal hammer or what're type with weird shaped pine I made into a handled punch/drift to be hit with a dead hammer, and my piece or rr track has a corner shaped to use as a cutter(worked pretty good earlier today, first successful hot cutting) and the middle web into a fuller or to be used like a horn at least for bending. All work was done by hand with a large file, and a belt for a sander, just no sander other then hands. Would have used the grinder but didn't want to risk waking little one from nap.

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CCHC, that is a section of rail road track, on stands I front of the "head" (the 1 1/2"x 3" bulbish section) this greatly reduces the chances of amputation. If one still has concern, a simple guard can be fabricated to cover it (as some one uninitiated may try striking from the flange side)

tiapan, you may want to work that hammer more. The 45 deg. Angle around the face is a work marring booger, I suggest working it into a smooth radius, as well as working the pein to a much larger radius. Something like 1/2 a coin (dime to quarter for the US or something on the line of 1/2-1" diameter).

further, if that is a good steel body hammer, bravo, if it's a cheap cast iron one, you will wood be disappointed. 

TP's beloved election signs and spring stock make fast handled struck tools, such as punches, chisels ect. As I live in oil country sucker rod is used in place of round spring more often as not, and the knuckles are already conviieniuntly shaped. 

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49 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

CCHC, that is a section of rail road track, on stands I front of the "head" (the 1 1/2"x 3" bulbish section) this greatly reduces the chances of amputation. If one still has concern, a simple guard can be fabricated to cover it (as some one uninitiated may try striking from the flange side)

 

Thank you. had a terrible time trying to get the pictures big enough to really see. 

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If you work from the rail side you'll be much less likely to open a knuckle on the hardy die.

The small pics are hard to see but I agree with Charles about the large hammer face. You want a smooth shallow radius with rounded edges, NOT a big honking 45 on the edges. Sharp corners are the enemy.

The sheet metal hammers are body hammers, shrinking hammers to be specific. One has the plannishing face and I can't see the other well enough to say..

Frosty The Lucky.

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Sorry about the pictures being small this go round, loaded ok last time. The Railroad Track has been retired as primary anvil. i replaced it with a 90 lbs Solid Bar. Thats why I altered it into a cut off.

I will work at flattening and smoothing the main hammer more ( I just wanted to take off all of the Factory Edges) And I was thinking about widening the pien more. But yes its a steel hammer. It got a good work out the other day, did a fair job. I basically finished up that cross I was working on, and made a short coal/charcoal rake (read that as a messed up bottle opener repurposed)

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