Champion 400 rebuild problem

[RogueRugger]

I'm stuck on a particular part on the disassembly of a Champion 400. Degreasing has been done. [The paint is the byproduct of the foolish assumption that this particular part of the process was going to be easy.] 

I'm having a crazy time getting the bushing out. Not sure how else to describe them except via the attached picture.  Others have suggested making special tooling or a combination of needle nose pliers and a wrench.   My next step is a bit of heat, but before I go there, I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything unusual or weren't any 'tricks' to getting these out.  

Thanks, Dave

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

I believe someone documented a complete rebuild of one here..may try a search for Champion 400.

[JME1149]

Those "bushings" are threaded into the housing. Best way to remove them is to put pins into the two outer holes, put a screwdriver between them and unscrew. No heat required. A better question might be why do you need to remove them in the first place? Is there a lot of slop between the bronze gear and it's bushings (hidden underneath the pieces you are trying to remove)?

[RogueRugger]

Thanks for the suggestion BGD, but yep did my homework here. The couple of very good discussions of rebuilds here seem to move past this step pretty quickly. Felt like I must be missing something obvious. 

[RogueRugger]

4 hours ago, JME1149 said:

Those "bushings" are threaded into the housing. Best way to remove them is to put pins into the two outer holes, put a screwdriver between them and unscrew. No heat required. A better question might be why do you need to remove them in the first place? Is there a lot of slop between the bronze gear and it's bushings (hidden underneath the pieces you are trying to remove)?

I'll give the pins a quick try tonight.  I'm coming to the same conclusion myself about not removing them.  I felt the machine deserved a full rework, but it may not be worth the risk of me screwing something up beyond repair. There is some play but it seems fall into what would be considered acceptable (based on previous threads - many thanks!).  Maybe put it off until I get a heated work area and can be a bit more patient. With the forge not running I seem to be leaving bits of skin on everything and it's not even really cold yet. Thanks for the suggestions! dR 

[medsar]

I just did this part of the rebuild of a champion 400 -- it requires a spanner....that I didn't have.  The nut is threaded as was mentioned.  I seem to remember that the holes are appropriate for a 1/4" round stock (such as old/used drill bits that sell for 25 cents at the hardware store).  I took two of them and cut off the 'drill' portion and mounted the 1/4" HSS stock into a piece of bar stock with holes drilled at the appropriate diameter required for the aforementioned nut.  By mounting, I mean welded.  I also welded a small bolt to the bar stock so I could use an end wrench to get the appropriate torque.

 

On another note, have you found a source for parts?  The worm screw at the bottom of my gearbox is trashed. 

[RogueRugger]

5 hours ago, medsar said:

I just did this part of the rebuild of a champion 400 -- it requires a spanner....that I didn't have.  The nut is threaded as was mentioned.  I seem to remember that the holes are appropriate for a 1/4" round stock (such as old/used drill bits that sell for 25 cents at the hardware store).  I took two of them and cut off the 'drill' portion and mounted the 1/4" HSS stock into a piece of bar stock with holes drilled at the appropriate diameter required for the aforementioned nut.  By mounting, I mean welded.  I also welded a small bolt to the bar stock so I could use an end wrench to get the appropriate torque.

 

On another note, have you found a source for parts?  The worm screw at the bottom of my gearbox is trashed. 

Thanks, hadn't thought of using some old bits. Sorry, no help on the parts. Thankfully mine was in okay shape. Good luck. dR