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I Forge Iron

micrometer


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Another useful tidbit is to never store the micrometer in the closed position as this can allow corrosion to form on the anvil and affect acurracy. I also like to check that the micrometer is zeroed before each use... Simply full close the mic and it should read 000. If it reads anything else, you probably have a small bit of dust, metal shaving etc on the face that needs to be wiped off. You would be surprised at how far off a little dust can put your readings. But no worries as blacksmithing doesn't create any dust or anything, LOL :p

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As far as storing in the closed position there is even more reason not to. Any temp changes will cause the metals to expand/contract and if the spindle expands or the frame contracts more then the other the frame could warp. While one can easily zero out a micrometer, a bent frame is like to cause the anvil and spindle face to no longer be parallel. Not easy to correct, and not easy to identify (if its just a couple thousanths) without an optical flat.

-MJ

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I got the shaper in the shop this fall. It really did amaze me that 1/32" inch wasn't even considered "close" with machine tools. I guess I knew about thousandths...I just never really thought about them much. Now I find myself calipering things coming off the anvil.... where does this metal madness stop!? ;)
-Aaron @ the SCF

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tbrforge; oh, definately the route to go... sorry I should have elaborated this... I don't want to pay the cost of having all my gage blocks cert'd regularly, so instead I send off one or two (right now I'm having one solid carbide 1/2" from a scherr tumico set done) then calibrate everything off of that... plan to use the millimess for comparative readings to calibrate the other blocks which then are used for the mics/etc in other ranges. And yeah it's overkill, especially since my home isn't fully climate controlled, etc ;) I just like it, and it goes well with my OCPD

-MJ

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