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I Forge Iron

Blade worthy steel

Tempered Warrior

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in the plain steel SAE 4 digit naming spec the last two digits are carbon content in points where 100 points equals 1%C; the first two digits refer to other alloying elements with 10 being a straight steel with only iron, carbon and a touch of manganese in it.

1011 and 1012 are very low carbon steels and would not make a good blade; in straight steels I would go with at least a 1050 and would encourage you to go higher in carbon content and think of differing alloys to; like 5160.

Now if it's not the SAE, and you haven't mentioned which spec system all I can say is that 1011 is more like frog steel

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Hot rolled has no direct correlation as to alloy content.  If you don't know it's junkyard rules!  IE test each piece for hardening---hammer out an end to blade thickness, heat to nonmagnetic, quench in water and then WEARING PPE! try to break the piece you just worked.  For a blade it should shatter WEAR PPE (I generally bridge the step on my anvil and tap ut with a hammer WEARING PPE!)  If it just bends or breaks only after HEAVY hammering on it then it's not blade worthy.

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