Benton Frisse Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Hey folks! Just wanted to share my finished camp ax. I forged this back in March at Liam Hoffman's ax forging class. Just recently was able to finish it. Drifted eye 4140. We only broke one sledge that weekend! This is only my second or third handle, carved from ash. Gave it a bake for 1.5hrs @400. I didn't get quite the harden i would have liked, though. I didn't have any parks 50 to quench in, and it didn't like hardening in veggie oil or used motor oil. I recently was able to field test it this past weekend. It sure did like to throw some nice sized chips! But hey, that's what first time experiments are for, yeah? Thanks for looking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 It looks pretty nice Benton: 4140 is a tough steel more than a hard one but it's probably a good choice for something like a camp hatchet or axe. I'm sure one of the bladesmith guys can offer a better tempering temperature for better hardness without embrittling the edge.I find a convex bevel provides a much more durable edge in an impact environment like axe blades live. I simply slack belt the final edge above the platten and it grinds and polishes a perfect convex bevel to the edge. Stropping is a similar process but on a microscopic scale. If I made or sharpened more blades I'd experiment with a leather belt on my belt grinder.Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Thanks for the compliments, Frosty! I'm thinking from now on when I do a drifted eye like this, I'll do it out of Mild and forge weld in some carbon. I too like a convex edge. I try to put those on some of my hawks... sure does get nice and sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w.s. Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I've never had a problem with 4140 in brine, especially not in that thickness. Tempering wise I might do the same in the oven and then submerge the blade in water to draw the eye/transitional slope back a little more with a torch just because that's the portion subject to the most stress.J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now