simmonds Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Merry Christmas fellow Smiths. It has been a while since I posted here. It is good to be back. I am currently building a new coal forge and plan to add a clinker breaker to my firepot more as a way to clean and adjust the airflow more than anything. Does anyone have a good drawing of a clinker breaker construction or close up photos they can refer me to? It is good to be back again. Thank you. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 I made one by taking a piece of 1-1/2 round and swatting it in a larger swage so it came out oval, then drilling a hole through the center. I could either set it 'open' or 'closed' depending on the fire (closed meant about 3/8 gap on the sides, open meant about 3/4 gap). You can also drill a hole off-center in a piece of round stock so rotating the handle cams it up or down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmercier Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 The clinker breaker in my coal forge is basically exactly what HWoldridge describes, it's just flat and round and can be replaced easy enough if it burns up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Why not make a side blast forge and then you don't even need a clinker breaker!! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdalcher Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 The clinker breaker on my forge is a an oval approx 4 inches long by about 3 inches across that has been flattened on 3 sides. Rotating the breaker causes one side of forming clinker to drop/while other side lifts and then is crushed against the side opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmonds Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 Thanks for the reply so far. I was looking through the photos section and saw some pics of Sam's forge and I think I understand how the clinker breaker was fabricated on his forge (I THINK!). I will try and go with that design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogPondForge Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 I too will be fabricating a coal forge soon. It is for my son and I was shooting for Christmas. I am kind of hung on the clinker breaker as well. Try as I may, I can't seem to navigate to the pictures mentioned. (Newbie) Could you show me the way? I go to "Galleries" then "Smithys" to no avail. While bungling, I bumped into an index including "Forges", looked through it, didn't see Sam, and moved on. Now I can't find that index again.... Anyhow, I will at least be following this thread. Thanks, MIKE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Funk Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 I read an interesting historical blacksmith book on line (I don't remember the title, sorry) This blacksmith advocated using a horizontal pipe with holes drilled in it and not use a clinker breaker with this design. One can adjust the length of fire by opening up or plugging holes in the pipe. The pipe should run all the way through the forge so you can use a poker type device to punch out any ash that may fall in. He spoke of a clinker breaker as an unnesecary(SP) complication caused by design of our fire pots. I have seen forges like this in the ruins of blacksmith shops in the western hard rock mining regions. These blacksmith shops were very busy busing and heavily utilized sharpening hundreds of drilling bits per day so the design must have some merit. I can not vouch for the pipe design myself but it is interesting enough to give me pause and think about the concept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Ruben, is that you ? Miss you at Old Threshers..clinker breaker on shop forge is stock for Roger Lorrances firepots. Sorry no pics but is 3 sided like described above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Mine is triangular. At least what I think that the clinker breaker is....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 A good friend of mine recently converted his forge to a side blast by simply making a wall of fire bricks on one side and sticking a 1" or 1.5" diameter pipe out from the wall. Easy to replace if it happens to burn off. So far, after several weeks it is still doing fine. It works great and it is easy for 2 or 3 or 4 smiths to have an iron in the fire and not get in each others way too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 I tried the tube type grate in my first forge. I got tired of the holes and slots filling up with clinker. I'd have to pretty well tear the fire apart to get the holes unplugged. For a clinker breaker, I used a piece of 2" round, chucked it in the lathe and drilled a hole through it lengthwise. I then used the 7" angle grinder to grind the round cross section into a somewhat lobed triangular cross section. when the triangle sits pointed side up, I get a fairly concentrated fire, when it sits flat side up, the fire spreads out more. I used a forge once that had the more flat type of clinker breaker mentioned here, and personally noticed no real difference, and since the flat seems a little simpler to fabricate, I'll probably go with that design next time. Never using the pipe/tubing grate style again though. -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmonds Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 Aaron. Thanks for the heads up and the great info. That settles it. I will fab up the flat type then. Thanks everyone for all the advise and help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mende Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 IF I only use charcoal. .do I need a clinker breaker? .. and if I use bituminous coal ..can;t I just periodically fish the clinker out with a poker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Clinker depends of the impurities in the coal or solid fuel. Some breaks up easily, some not so easily. I use two different type of coal in my forge, one that produced little or no clinker, and the other that makes wonderful clinkers, the stuff that starts rumors and legends. With some of the clinker being the size of your fist, usually hooking out the clinker works best. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Aww-- clinkers, sometimes something just needs to be heated for straightening or bending so I don't use my "good WV coal"--I use the stuff I have salvaged from coal bins in some of the older homes here that make some good sized clinkers. I try to fish them out in as big a chunk as I can--let them cool--dip them in future acrylic floor finish and after drying, present them as dragon droppings. They go quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevan Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Here, have a look at this site. One of the best I`ve found!Shady Grove Blacksmith Shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Here is a shot of mine, the circular disc with the holes spins around. You can see the handle nob and connecting shaft. Works quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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