DanielC Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) This burner is nearly finished. Loosely based off of Grants design, and mostly based off of Chris Price's design at Tidewater Forge.This is a 1" inlet going into a manifold I fabricated that was inserted into a ~3000-3500F (can't remember. Its made into ladles to hold molten iron in industries) castable refractory, similar to Mizzou, but has higher flux resistence. Will be lining my kaowool in the forge with it as well.Once it sets a little longer I will melt out the crayons and have a burner ready. I am making two, one for me and one for a good friend. This being my first one, I of course missed a step, that of spraying my form with a release agent. Plus I was a little impatient and pulled the form a little early. This resulted in a corner edge breaking off. It is only cosmetic though. Rehydrated what broke off and it stuck back on readily.Building a ribbon burner for several reasons. Mainly I am tired of only using coal/solid fuel. It really get old having to sift ashes and clinker and re-build my firebrick enclosure in my forge every time I want to forge. Coupled with the fact that I have to pull the forge outside every time as well....Another reason is I work bloomery material a lot, and make pattern weld. This burner should theoretically evenly heat up 10"-12" of material to welding temps before the heat gradient tapers off. This seems to be a better option for me than regular burners.Of course this burner is forced air as well. Very efficient for what it does. More so than venturi or forced air burners. This ribbon uses a higher air to fuel ratio than regular forced air burners.Also, my picture orientation is wonky. For some reason the forums want to flip around the orientation. Edited June 15, 2015 by DanielC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 You don't want to melt out the crayons. That is a big mess. Use a drill bit the same size as the diameter of the crayons and drill them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w.s. Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Ribbon burners have a soft spot in my heart, probably my favorite performance wise. So what's your plenum volume?J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 (edited) Oh I found out the hard way. I now have a multi-colored rainbow post vice.Made another for a friend. This one turned out much nicer. I haven't pinned down the size of my forge yet. Something large enough to fit 5-8# bloom iron/steel halves after they are somewhat processed in the coal forge getting most of the rest of the slag out so it doesn't destroy all the consumable castable plates I'm going to make out of this same castable.This will pretty much be my everything forge plus for welding.This being my first forge ran on gas, any tips on how many sq. Inches to shoot for, with a ribbon burner of this rough size with a 1" inlet? Edit: just realized you were asking about the plenum volume not the forge itself. So the mixing area behind the castable. Its 2"x8.5"x 3/4" in the manifold itself. The manifold is a little but wider than my hole pattern. Chris Price who has tested this exact design, just slightly scaled down found 1/2" to be plenty and found no need for a baffle, plus the baffle added what he felt as unecessary back pressure Edited June 17, 2015 by DanielC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 This is what the manifold looked like prior to casting. First pic is prior to drilling hole and welding on some black iron pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Cleaned up the welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Please delete.THIS NEW FORUM WE SWITCHED TO IS SO BUGGY! I CANNOT EVEN POST PROPERLY! IT KEEPS TELLING ME IT IS FORBIDDEN, OR IT JUST DOESNT SHOW VID. WTH! Edited June 20, 2015 by DanielC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Remember that you cannot judge the burner while burning when it is out side of the forge body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Burner Running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvJWTC9PZ2QI cannot get the video to imbed. Oh well. There it is running outside of a forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Daniel, nice looking torch I am really interested in this. You don't happen to have a picture of the process of the manifold to refractory connection, do you? Does it just sit in the top of the refractory mold and set in place or are there anchors to hold in in place while the mud sets?Edit: Oops. Just read your second post and it explains it quite satisfactorily. Edited June 20, 2015 by Dodge Dodge needs to read more ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Just make your form like the image shown (Though I found I needed to cut an inch off of the top of the crayons.), mix your castable refractory and pour in. You dont want it to be higher than the crayons. The jiggle your manifold into the castable. Wayne has a great pdf. on his site that explains it even better. It says to weld angle iron stops. I just used a c-clamp around the 1" pipe coming out of the manifold and rested it on top of the form to hold it at the height I needed. I have around 1/2" or a little bit more submerged, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Sweet. This and your description above makes it crystal clear. Thanks Daniel!Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 No problem, glad I could be of some help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w.s. Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Nice detailed pics.. This is how I've been building burners for years and absolutely love the performance of them. Nice job with the pics.-J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Just a quick test run before I sculpted in the 3500F highly slag resistant refractory (doing that in stages now). The only problem I had so far in construction was the re-welding of the forge body when cutting down that we'll bladder tank to desired size. My welders are for welding heavy stuff, and they aren't too fond of lower voltages. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUTk5Mo3-AU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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