I'm easing into a new (to me) welding power unit, a Thermal Arc 350 Ultra Flex.  Really like it so far.  Anyone here know if a Hobart 19 pin tig pedal will work with the 19 pin remote plug receptacle on the TA?

Preemptive replies to the inevitable comments:

Yes I have and have read the owner's manual.

I have called my local welding supply store, waiting on response.

No I haven't tried this question on the welding forums because  A. I'm a member of too many forums already and get irritated with those one question members and B. With all the wise folks here someone probably knows the answer.  

 

Thanks in advance!

It SHOULD be... Just keep in mind that the answer you may get from the welding supplier (because they will contact the manufacturer) is absolutely not and that you need to buy the correct, "manufacturer recommended part".... The best way to find out is to simply try it. No harm in trying, meaning you wont fry the machine in any way. If you're the kind of person who likes to have verification before you try it, to be on the safe side, Look through the manual and it should give sort of a "schematic" on what each individual control the pins go to along with wire color designation should you cut the cord and splice in a finger switch or something to that effect.

-Hillbilly

call thermal arc & Hobart techs & ask ? make sure ! before you try it

I have call welding co techs over the years & ask some strange ? on my shop welders & always got the Info I needed

About who to call regarding interchangability of parts. Several years ago my Lincoln Ranger 9 gen set wasn't putting out 240v correctly and kept shutting down when I tried. So I took it in to the certified Lincoln service guys at the Lincoln dealer in Anchorage who promptly screwed the machine up royally. In spite of my writing clearly  on the work order that the 240v electrical outlet was in need or service the tech kept trying to "FIX" the welder side to run 250amps at 240v. A Ranger 9 has NO SUCH SETTING!!! Setting it at max output across the board and dead shorting the leads was his test method and after stopping the 17hp engine cold several times managed to twist the output shaft and shear the key.

A local guy who just repairs engines and welders fixed it in about a week and she works a charm just like new now. The certified service center not only waved their bill but only one call to corporate and an E-mail with the competent mechanic's statement and bill with pics, had the local shop paying his bill too.

Okay, all that story actually ties in. You can't take the dealer's word for it certified or not, they're just human. However an electric motor repair shop is set up to test and trouble shoot virtually anything electrical coming in the door and they aren't there to sell THEIR product. Were it me I'd take the whole sheebang into Hayden Electric in Anchorage and see what the Pros have to say. Just their test bench that wouldn't fit in a 2 car garage.

Just my dos copecs.

Frosty The Lucky.

Update-  

Yup.  It works.  I LOVE the tig function on this machine, smother in DC than my Syncrowave.