Little Giant 50 lb Power Hammer Refurbish

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A half horse is OKAY, I wouldn't really say enough. Beats using a hand hammer for lots of stuff though. The book says a 50lb. should cycle at 300-350 bpm. and work IIRC 3" stock. 

I believe the 50lb. was primarily an agricultural power hammer the basic dies were ideal for sharpening plow shears. It's a trick to get those dies to draw without the curve. 

Does yours have a brake yet? A brake is a nice thing Mine doesn't stop the ram at the top as well as I'd like but that's a matter of tweaking it a little. It still stops the ram almost as soon as I let off the treadle.

The first pic is it on the trailer coming home, taking a break on Turnagain Arm. 

Pic 2 is the brake I put on it. If the band were longer it's stop better and is on the to do list.

The last pic is the scatter shield in case the spring breaks in use. A lot of guys enclose the whole front of their hammers to shield themselves from a shattered spring. Yes it does happen rarely but the spring is directly in front of your face so . . . -_- Anyway, my scatter shield is to deflect broken pieces away from the operator but still allow a clear view of the piece on the hammer most likely to break in a dangerous manner. That's also the purpose of the paint. I was careful to do it right I degreased and lightly sanded the spring and acid etch primed it with epoxy. The red is a couple coats of epoxy in "Titian Red." All the red on the hammer is Titian Red. Why all the trouble painting a SPRING? Paint is a marvelous warning flag, as long as the steel under it doesn't change shape the paint just lays there. IF however the steel does change shape say a hairline crack starts to form the paint cracks and peals off the failure. 

And THAT boys and girls is why I want to be able to see the parts most likely to fail catastrophically on my hammer. Things like the link arms and other moving parts are red as a warning but the spring is special and worth additional attention.

Frosty The Lucky.

1NewToy8.jpg.9f273d384bf3b8e6fed7576112373dea.jpg 58d087e172f35_LGBrake1.jpg.cd1eacbbd67bd651ed81cfad1a5ffef8.jpg 58d087f97a374_Newspringguard02.jpg.0369385fcfea2cadb007a0979b5c9d0f.jpg

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mine does not have a brake,

the one I was learning with at another local knife-maker does have a brake that he put on, so I'm familiar with the brake concept.

btw I'm Harbeer and a little about me here -

2 hours ago, stockmaker said:

Hi HSC.  2hp is 2 hp regardless of the voltage used to power it.  The 110V motor will draw twice the current as the 220V version so your electric bill for the use of the 110V motor will be twice the cost. . Also the 110V motor is going to draw about 17 amp's so you will have to have it on a 20 amp circuit maybe more to cover startup.  Congratulations on getting a power hammer. 

ok I understand

working with knife making grinders that use 3 phase motors and VFD, I ;learned that you can only yield 1.5 HP from a 2 HP motor due to efficiency loss in the phase conversion.

I think the first step is to get the pulley off and confirm the shaft and pulley diameters

then order the motor with hopefully the correct shaft dia and length or see about some sort of shaft adapter.


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I still have the power hammer!  I have just about finished my little 14'x14' small shop .  Next,  I am building an enclosed patio off the front of it to house my power hammer anvil swage cone mandrel etc.   The project got put on hold for awhile I was sick for 8 months until the Dr's could figure out it was my gallbladder.  What a crappy 8 months,   I was sick all the time. Had it out last June and I'm almost 100% now. I'll post up some pics in a few weeks when the rain clears. 

Oh,  motor is 2 HP. Screenshot_20170320-210821.thumb.png.e51b81109d5af07a3a031cfc2188ee82.png




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On 4/6/2015 at 11:01 AM, Rose Lodge Forge said:

congrats on your hammer,an injury to my shoulder put me out of business for 8 months until I found my.50 lber #1306,made in 1906.It had sat in a farmers field up at Tri Cities in the Colombia George Washington state for 42 years until he gave it to me in 2004.I found little giant helpful for most parts.I wanted to replace some pretty worn out parts,in particular the knuckles,BUT,the replacements were just machined parts,I wanted cast origionals.If anyone out there has a spare 2 of them I would pay them genereously for them.I'm a full time blacksmith and am at Rose Lodge Forge on the central coast of Oregon,holler at me if you have or know where I can get "original" knuckles,541-994-2118.Thanks and "happy hammering".Don.

I'm still hopeing that someone has a couple of extra knuckles,I would be glad to pay top dollar for them to keep my 1906 hammer original,541-994-2118.We are Rose Lodge Forge.

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