I've been lurking for awhile, gathering info to build my first forge and wanted to post this to say thanks, to everyone for all the info and ideas that have been posted on IFI.

I used 14 2300 insulating fire bricks for the entire forge, the top and bottom are pressed together with strap and allthread to make it easy to repair/replace bricks.  You can't see the bottom but it is comprised of 5 bricks stood on there side to give more insulation for the table.  I built 2 burners to go with it, a 1" side arm burner thats the one in the pics and a modified version of frosty's tee burner.

I'll get some pics of the 3/4 burner running and specs for both burners posted up alittle later.

 

 

 

Welcome aboard josh, glad to have you.

 

It's hard to tell in a dark shop but it looks to be running pretty rich. I've never seen it done but doesn't the bell reducer in the burner tube really make back pressure?

 

Frosty The Lucky.

IT definately could be.  I couldn't find a ward T local and was to impatient to wait for one.  I used lamp rod so I could make fine adjustments.  I enjoy tinkering with these things anyway, so even if I have to go back to the drawing board thats a good thing to.  I'll try to post better pics and some specs for both burners.

I used lamp rod for my first couple burners but once I figured out the best jet depth I started using 1/8" MPT to 1/4" compression fittings, they're so much easier to use I'd have to pull one of my first burners to see how I used the lamp rod. One of the critical details after getting the fitting centered on the tube is to stop tapping it before the fitting would bottom out. That keeps it tight so it'll stay aligned.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

    I know what you mean, the 3/4" I taped so it was still tight to thread the lamp rod in and it doesnt move around at all.  The 1" however I taped to far and if the locknut isn't tight the lamp rod will flop around a bit.  I wonder if a reducer bushing instead of a bell reducer would creat less back pressure?