gearhartironwerks Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Hello to all, There is a knife shop across the street from my shop and they sell my damascus chef and hunting blades. Recently, a knife maker decided to pull his blades from the store for whatever reason even though they were selling. Maybe not as many as he would've liked, but whatever. So, I approached the owner about filling the void and he readily agreed. The former blades were hunting/skinners and were somewhat rustic with deer/elk handles, a rough grind and had a price point between $100-200. I'm certain the fit and finish can be better w/o a lot more time. So, my thinking is to have fun forging, grinding the bevels and improving my technique without having to spend the time making damascus and worrying about blowing a billet. My question to you is what steel to use as I want to keep everything in house as I have the capability to heat treat. Secondly, I want to use carbon steel and avoid stainless. Thoughts? Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I like L-6, although it's no the easiest to get. 5160 is much easier, but you'll have to forge it. Both are very forgiving in heat treat. 1084 is probably going to be the easiest for you to get and heat treat yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKLabs Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I'll agree with jmc, 1084 is a great starting point. I have worked a few others but this is the better one for ease of use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Greetings Gear, I would concern myself with the terms of the consignment. Normally dealers want 40 percent profit . That does not seem like a profitable program to me considering the cost of material. I question why the other dealer pulled his stuff. I am sure you know the local market for knives .. Insurance on your product is another factor.. I hope this helps Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Buy 1084 or wotever you decide and don't spend the time at the forge...stock removal is easy and there is simply no difference in the finished product...Forging would be needed if you got too large or wrong shapes in the steel you buy. I can bandsaw out a profile and rough grind for heat treat in a real short time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Just bought 01 for the same reason! To make knives that is....... :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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