Blacksmith Jim Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 Last time I visited the scrap yard I picked up a few large circular saw blades. They were about 2 foot in diameter. The hole in the center is probably 8 inches across. Does anyone know what metal these might be made out of? I looked in the junkyard metals BP but didn't see any mention. I picked them up because I thought they might work OK for layers in a damascus billet. I've been thinking that I would like to try making some damascus soon. Is there anything anyone would suggest for easy material to use? I don't want to do anything fancy, but would like to have pronounced layers visible. I've heard band saw blade and strapping before, but I don't have either of those lying around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcraigl Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 I've been told that they're almost all made out of L-6, which is what the proverbial band saw blade is usually made out of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Turner Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Depends on what they look like I get some from a friend of mine and he had some tested they are 8670 modified similar to L6 bandsaw steel is 15N20. Have a picture? if they have insert teeth they could be 8620 or 8630 I forget what Gene Martin told me have even heard some had mild steel body with insert teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 I'll see if I can get a picture tomorrow. The digital camera has been finicky lately. The cell phone tends to be a little blurry, but it does work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted October 7, 2007 Author Share Posted October 7, 2007 Here are a few pics. I thought the teeth on one were interesting. It looks like they dropped weld beads on the end, so they could file them to a new point I'm assuming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Turner Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 Could be 8670 modified blades, I would take a piece and heat treat it see if it gets hard but I think you may have scored. Can try and etch it after heat treat 8670 stays bright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 From what I can see in the pictures, the one on the left looks like it might be a good blade for what your talking about. As far as the one on the right, I have two thoughts: 1) the weld globs are from where high carbon/carbide tips had been but are no longer or 2) your right in figuring that someone tried welding them up to get more life out of them. I know most of the large sawmill blades have the clip on blade tips (either high carbon or carbide now). But these blade don't look to be that type. Good luck and probably an experimental heat treat/etch will tell more than anything. -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Pook Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 I think someone welded the tips up so they could hang it up on the wall without worrying that someone was going to get hurt. I have a few similar blades that I have been saving, xxxx sharp with or without the carbide tips being there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted October 21, 2007 Author Share Posted October 21, 2007 I'll have to try a test heat treat and etch on them. Good idea. For the other material of a billet, I was thinking about pounding some coil spring flat.. Not sure if that would layer well or not.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Get it as flat as possible by hammering and then dress off with a flap disc. It doesn't hurt to have a slight crown down the length of your material. It helps prevent slag and flux from being trapped inside when you first begin the weld. It gives it a place to go. Another method to get steel flat is to make a die set like a spring fuller only make a channel that will limit the thickness of the steel in a more or less uniform manner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Note that Ni containing steels are harder to weld to each other than Ni to plain carbon steels; that coil spring may not be the best match with the sawblade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Turner Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Note that Ni containing steels are harder to weld to each other than Ni to plain carbon steels; that coil spring may not be the best match with the sawblade. I agree I would get some 10XX steel for mixing with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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