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Featured Replies

I saw these plans online and started fabrication.   It looks like it should do what we need to.    I have to finish insulating the walls and mount some cement board behind the hood.  Still looking for a leg vise, but I'll try to be patient.  I'm waiting to pick up a piece of 1/4" plate for the front.  Has anyone else built a similar hood?  Should I put a smoke shelf in it before closing it in?

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  • Author

I don't know why the link to the plans didn't show. 

 

 

Because they have been removed, Jock does not want anyone posting links for his site, No clue why.

Greetings Dylan,

 

Looks like you got it going your way with your shop..   Just a few points...   1/4 plate is to heavy for what you need ..  As per Thomas and most of us..  If that is your exhaust pipe on the wall I would consider larger...  Also when you go to buy cement board get enough to completely surround your forge... Too much wood to close...  A fire extinguisher and a CO detector a must while your shopping...  Just some points from an old boy..   Good luck .. Oh and clean your anvil..  YUCK

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

  • Author

I think I might have enough 16 ga. to make a 10" square exhaust pipe system.  That should be large enough to create a decent draft shouldn't it?

The bigger you go the better off you will be.  Just remember you have to replace the air that goes up it so count on having some way for air to get into your shop.  Also corrugated steel is great to have against the bottom of the wood so hot pieces that go flying don't just sit up against the wood and start it on fire.  Just my 2 cents.  Oh and ditto on fire extinguisher and co detector.

My chimney is 10" round and has never smoked out the shop. I am using a super sucker side draft. I also have my wood stove going into the same 10" pipe.

  • Author

Matto, on the inside of your hood did you weld in something to act as a smoke shelf?  Before I close the front of mine in I wanted to find out if it was necessary.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Dylan,  

    I may have seen this post to late to add my input. On the side draft forge the smoke shelf is the key to the draw. Do your math and you can see the smoke pull sideways. You need about a 20% reduction at the throat and the chimney should be 10% or more larger than the finished forge opening. This is easily done in square inches. The old fireplace rule of, two feet above the ridge line or ten feet away, is good to follow but the chimney being larger than the opening is more important. The smoke rapidly expanding into a large area after the smoke shelf is the true mechanics of the system, the  "draw".

    I never studied the Super Sucker and don't know what it does, however I have built brick side drafts that work well with the above formula. I am convinced there are thousands of formulas out there, I am only offering the one that I personally find success with.

                                                                                                                                                                                     Chuck

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