New power hammer die (photos)

[johnnie]

Hi guys, as I've said in an earlier post, I was given some huge forklift tines. Too heavy to lift between to blokes. 
I decides now my power hammer is finally up and running I would cut the tines and have a go at making a new die for the hammer.
Not sure if I was wasting my time not knowing what steel I was working with and if it would be hard enough for 50kg power hammer dies.
It took half an hour to cut a piece out of the fork and almost 2composite cutting disks. Couple of hours more of carefully cutting and grinding and it looked the part. 
Now for the test. 
I heated up  a large piece of spring leaf 6" x1" and tapered it down. Not a mark on the surface. Tried a taper out of 1" square bar and still not a dimple on the surface.
After another couple of hours forging still nothing!!!
I think I've just saved myself best part of 600 quid and I still have the rest of the first fork and a second one.
Any idea's on what to make next and what tooling they would be good for?

[jason0012]

I would recommend a pair of matching flat dies. You can do a whole lot more with them in the way of tooling than drawing dies or combo dies. Forklift tines are usually something on par with 4140 witch makes great hammer dies. Good luck with the cool Beaudry!

[iron woodrow]

what material is the dovetail? and what weld material did you use?

if the answer to either of those questions is "mild steel" you are going to have a crack forming next to the weld. the weld will peel away from the die material, due to the difference in properties of the two alloys in question. welding dissimilar metals will have this effect.

 

sorry to rain on your parade, I just thought it is important that you know what you are in for, and what to look out for.

 

other than that, you have made a very nice die!

and your hammer is superb, congratulations to you for owning such a nice machine.

[doc]

A way to help avoid the cracking Woody has mentioned is to preheat to 500*F before welding.

[Quarry Dog]

A post heat where you gradually reduce heat also helps with HAZ cracking, although I don't know if you really need it on 40 point steel.  I alway do it whenever I'm making anything using airchisel bits though, or they like to snap just behind the weld when I really get to abusing the modified tool.

[johnnie]

Yes you guessed it, mild steel dovetail and mild steel mig wire. I had wondered how it would wear.

Thank you for the advice.

I could heat in the gas as I have a digi thermometer.

Not over worried, just pleased that the tines are great for tooling (happy face)!!!!

[jason0012]

You could always drill tap and counterbore the backside of the dovetail for some big hex bolts 3/4-1 inch. Drive them in with the die good and warm then weld over the backside, and grind flush. They will hold the two halves together even if the welds fail.

[johnnie]

Well done Jas, thats a good idea. 

 

Been worried about making the top dies because of the dove tail braking of during use and causing me an accident.

 

But that said your idea kinda gives me piece of mind.

 

Thanks buddy.

[jason0012]

I have built up dies out of all manner of junk. Clifton would forge a pair of dies for that hammer on that hammer. I am not that much a glutton for punishment and own a shaper. If your welds start to go you will hear the tone change long before you get full separation. V out your welds pretty deep, preheat/post heat and use a 7018- e70s or better. Run hot and let it cool slow and it should hold. The bad thing about welding a dovetail is the fillet getting in the way of the wedge. Try to get a minimum of 60% penetration