Katsumoto Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Does anyone have any info on how to heat treat 1095 carbon steel using the Japanese claying method? And what method and temp do you temper after the heat treating? Thanks, Katsumoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 1095 is awfully high carbon for doing the clay hardening bit using water. Be prepared for a LOT of failures. Most folk I know suggest doing an interrupted quench on it and they still expect around 50% failures due to quench cracks. Japanese swords were generally more around 1050 and very shallow hardening at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodforge Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Katsumoto, I've had good luck creating hamon lines in 1095 using a hybrid method. Coat with clay as normal, I heat to mid/upper critical- a shade brighter than non magnetic, and quench in 120 degree canola oil ( rape seed oil ) , Temper - well that depends on the size of the blade and application 375f - 475 f . One thing to keep in mind is the sori or curvature caused by quenching is backwards in the oil , instead of curving up it curves down. I've been experimenting more with water quenching , but still crash allot of blades , with a Oil quench I have better than 90% success rate, with water it's , 40 % if I'm LUCKY ! Thomas has it quite right , if you want to water quench start with some 1050 or 1065 or be prepared for lots of warps and cracks ... Best of Luck ! Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katsumoto Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 Thanks for the info. I already have 5 peices of 1095 and I am going to be making blades in the 5" to 8" range. I will see how it works and go from there. Maybe I will try some 1050 or 1065 steel next time. Katsumoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbaknife Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 To increase your luck and avoid cracking from the radical quench of water or brine, use Parks #50 quench oil, which approximates the speed of water/brine, which will be necessary for 1095 and hamon activity. Due to its professional nature, it avoids the stress more common to water quenches. Available form Darren Ellis by the gallon.Ellis Custom Knifeworks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzajko Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 I used hybrid method too. It worked fine. ----------------Heat treating and vacuum carburizing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.