flemish Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 I tried to weld some 1" square to the bottom of a rail, to make a hardy hole. I ran 3 passes on each side and as I was running the last pass I heard a PING. A little later I saw a crack down the side of my weld on the other side. after about 1 hr. work using a hot cut and bottom fuller it fell off. The welds popped out of the rail leaving a app. 1/16 grove where my weld was. I don't have a camera so I can't show pics. Can I do this with my welder? I have a 110 stick welder and used 6011 rods, what I had. If so what did I do wrong? Thanks, Flemish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 What did you use for the mandatory preheat and postheat for welding high carbon steels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 I assume you didn't pre heat the rail. Rail is fairly high carbon, some sources say 90 point. I've never truer to weld it cold, always hot. 500 deg. Is what I was told, I heat it till its just starting to glow, then back off and let it cool wile I'm getting everything jigged up. Works for me. The it her point, even tho I've welded heavy stuff with preheat and good prep with a 110 welder, I know that you don't get good penetration. Like you will with a 220 unit. Old tombstones are cheap on the used market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 I have a massive book published by Lincoln that has all sorts of useful information on arc welding in it. Since I am not a pro I'll go and research a project in it if I have issues---I just don't like having my computer near the arc welder...or forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Tommas, I'm spoiled. I haven't had to grab the dog eard welding book in a wile. I phone with an outer box defender. It's been trew $)(&. But truth is I know 3 good welders, so after a bit of research I make a phone call or 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 I too have had weldor friends who can explain what an idiot I am...I'm looking to get an armoured case for my insulin pump to make it a bit more shop safe. Probably use boiled leather to make a rigid, light and fairly non-conductive case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Type I? Certainly doesn't seem to slow you down. My buddy's laugh at me, something with my eyes,even with the lightest safe lense I have to use work lights and helmet cover, or I lose sight of the joint and my welds go asque. Chalking only helps some, and of corse with the coner the lends and glasses fog up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flemish Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 My neighbor found out that I had a problem with it and he cranked up the old welder and I think It will hold this time. It does not get a lot of stress, but then that is what I thought last time. Thanks guys. Glad to know to preheat. just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Preheat, preheat, preheat.... Railroad rail is a high strength low alloy material with high(er) carbon content with added manganese for toughness. Plus, it is such a large section being welded (especially with a 110V welder, even if it is stick) it sucks the heat right away from the weld joint. 350 degree minimum preheat for the rail before you weld. As far as any post weld heat treatment goes, long as your shop isn't Jack Frost cold, just leave it cool down in the ambient air. -Hillbilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I have made several RR anvils in the past, and I have cut a piece of a RR plate (the piece the rail sets on) for the end of the anvil utilizing the square hole as the hardy hole. Then you can use RR spikes as the shank for all those kustom (spell it with a K makes it worth more money. lol) hardy tools you'll be making in the future. Hope this helps! -Hillbilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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