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Short sword WIP

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Hi, I am working on a sword from a piece of weld steel I think around 1040 steel. I etched it with Old Norse runes and a design on the other side. I also half polished the patina to give it a worn look. The handle is hickory wood and riveted with brass. All that is left is the grinding to shape it slightly. Constructive criticism and suggestions would help!

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I have to agree with Justin. Albeit there's little to no curve, it does have that katana/samuai appearance. Most of the images I have seen of viking blades are double edged with a pronounced taper, as well as as fairly massive guard and pommel. e.g. Viking Sword

Irregardless of your interpretation, some kind of guard is always nice on a weapon. You almost always cut yourself when using a knife as a weapon (yes I know you made a sword). Another consideration is making the hilt more "grippy", sweat and yes blood (yours or theirs) will make the grip slick. Loseing your weapon can make for a bad day. Even if your just showing off and your buddy's laugh at you for throwing it away. Worse if it hits one of them.
But hay, the point is you made it, you enjoyed making it and you learned something in the prosses.

  • Author

Yes I do understand that it does have a clashing culture. And yes I am going to wrap the handle in leather and add a guard when i can. Thank you and yes I did! Thank you for the advice!


I really appreciate it!

You could quite easily modify it to a langseax for a true Viking feel! 

"Weldable steel" as sold by the big box stores is LOW CARBON NOT 1040; almost certainly A-36.  As such it will not hold a good edge and can't be heat treated to hold a good edge and will be prone to taking a set in use---something that the norse considered a trait of inferior weapons.  (You may remember the Saga where they switch out a guy's good sword for an inferior one and he had to stop in battle to straighten it!)

 

A section of leaf spring makes a quite good sword especially if you source it from a spring shop and get it straight and new.

 

I must admit to sometimes making use of the taper in some springs to save effort; but I do straighten them HOT.

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