First Burn: dual burner propane

[steamingspud]

9ccde753b08ced6bdb4c7b5f28bb24db

[Frosty]

That's what you're looking for, you're about as close to there as it's worth hassling for. A little green in the dragon's breath is fine, don't worry about it. Mine does that all the time, sometimes it means I'm over heating a piece of steel. Part of the sputtering is the result of exhaust fumes being drawn into the burners. Extending a deflector from the tops of the doors will really help. I have to do that on mine. It's no big deal, it happens.

 

Kiln shelf makes a fine floor, call ceramic suppliers. Put it on another layer of Kaowool so your forge chamber is smaller, it'll develop some serious heat in a smaller volume.

 

If you put more water in the ITC-100 it'll be much easier to apply, I like it about gravy+/- consistency so it fills a paint brush and lays on easily. Wet the kaowool, fire brick or whatever you're coating (butter it) and it'll apply better and not peal. Dry surfaces suck the water out of it on contact so it doesn't bond well. Buttering the surface first does the trick. You can in fact add enough water to ITC-100 to use a spray bottle to apply it. I've never done that but talked to folk who have and it works. butter the surface first no matter how you apply it.

 

Now you're down to putting that anvil on a proper stand, move it to a proper working distance and doing some forging. Oh yeah, read the knife forums here, that is NOT the way to harden tool steel! It was WAY too hot and that is NOT the way to quench, eve in water.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[swedefiddle]

Good Morning,

 

Make ledges below the outside edges of the forge. This will hold fire-brick that you can use as front and back doors. Controlling the openings will retain some of the heat inside the forge. You do not need hi-temp fire-brick, just regular fire-brick.

K.I.S.S. Keep It Stupid Simple!!

 

Neil