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G2 fullering tool


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I always thought about building a fullering tool like this, but never could pin down a design. Never could settle on what size for the dies, and how to make it. Mike and Peyton came up with this one. Problem solved, I could not make one of these as nice for the same price haha. Similar to the "godzilla" guillotine tool some smiths use. Has a nice adjustable depth stop, swings out of the way when not in use.

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Nice hardened pin to keep the hardy shank from rotating!
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The smaller tool sets also have less inertia so seem to work better with the typical hand hammer. My version is very similar but welded together rather than bolted. In any case, you will not regret having that in the shop - it's truly a great tool for the smith who works alone.

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Nice tool Sam, much stouter and well thought out that the one I made. I still like having the  dies mounted at a 45 so I can use it lengthwise as in fullering a long blade or crosswise say to draw one down or set a shoulder, etc.

 

I made several dies for mine and seem to use the butchers most.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 1 month later...

I just received my Yesteryear G2 Guillotine Fuller tool this past Saturday, haven't got to use it yet, but it is very heavy duty and build quality is top notch.

 

I'll be using it to make my strap hinges for the new shop very soon.

 

 

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I agree with you Sam. Mike and Linda Tanner and Peyton Anderson are great contributors to the world's blacksmithing community, and the quality and affordable tooling is just one of the many ways they contribute. Everyone should check out Yesteryear Forge and support them with their efforts. The tools they make is just a piece of what they are doing to promote, support, and educate today's blacksmith. Get to know them. You won't meet anyone more genuine and sincere and sharing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

While the site has been down I had a crack at making a fullering guillotine

 

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The blades are cut out of very tough 3/8" mm thick hardwood chipper blades. 

I tested out how well they would withstand use by putting on all the PPE I had and then belting them edge on with a large sledge hammer.

They did not chip but started to mushroom after about half a dozen blows.

 

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The body is made from a 3 x 3" x 3/16" SHS section so it is intended for smallish stuff.

I have a piece of 4 x 4" x 1/4" SHS and some 1/2" chipper blades to make a bigger one if I need to.

As I only have a small (112 lb) anvil, rather than a hardy hole mount I decide to go with a chunky 5/8" cross clamp so it could be mounted in the middle of the anvil. 

 

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The blade can be held at any height with this spring loaded friction pin.

This allows the top jaw to be held open before withdrawing the  workpiece from the forge.

After placing the workpiece on the bottom jaw, a sight tap of the top jaw with a hammer will drive that jaw onto the workpiece

 

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There is also an end stop available if needed.

 

The metal pieces were cut with out an angle grinder and tidied up using a grinder and linisher.

The machines used were a welder, drill press, and a lathe to make the big swivel lock.

I'm quite pleased with the way it works 

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