Fuller Radius

[RyanMark]

If you wanted to spread out some flat stock quickly, what size fuller (bottom only) would you use?

 

I don't have a fullering tool.  I read a post on here, can't find it now though, about using some small round stock clamped to the anvil as a bottom fuller.  So, I'm wondering what radius (or diameter in my case) would be best.  My stock starts out at 1/4 inch thick, 6 inches wide or more, and I want to spread it out and elongate it efficiently. 

 

And how about spacing?  All suggestions welcome!  Thanks

 

 

[VaughnT]

You can do a good bit of fullering using the horn of the anvil, and the varying radii of the horn will help to smooth thinks out.

 

As for using round stock on the anvil face, anything round will work.  It depends on how fast you want to move the metal.

 

1/4" round stock has less surface area in contact with the work, so it will sink in deeper with a given hammer blow than a piece of 1" round stock.  A variety of sizes will work best, imo.

[MLMartin]

Is there a reason you want to use a bottom fuller only? As apposed to using the pien of the hammer on top and just the flat anvil underneath.

If I wanted to quickly elongate material I would use a hammer with a narrow pien.

[Jim Coke]

Greetings Ryan,

 

You can also use a flat pien hammer on the face of the anvil.  About 1/4 in flat works fine...  SQUISH

 

Good luck

 

Jim

[Pat Roy]

1/4"x6", what are the final dimensions you want? I would go out and buy stock of the correct size and save all the work.

[RyanMark]

Is there a reason you want to use a bottom fuller only? As apposed to using the pien of the hammer on top and just the flat anvil underneath.

If I wanted to quickly elongate material I would use a hammer with a narrow pien.

I'm just worried about my accuracy.  I figured that hammering with a flat face while moving the work over the fuller would be easier to get my ridges in line, rather than swinging a crosspein.

[Frosty]

Trying to fuller 6" wide stock without making a spring die isn't going to make for very even results. I made one from 1/2" rd. hot rolled because I have 1" hardy holes in both anvils and folding the stock in half fit nicely. I don't have a pic and it's really too beaten up now to be worth it.

 

The basic idea is to bend the rod double like a tight hair pin with one short leg, about 12" in your case. The long leg needs to be quite a bit longer, you can trim it if it's too much, say 18-20" or so. Now, insert the bend in your hardy hole till it just barely protrudes from the bottom of the heal and mark where it crosses the face. Heat it above the mark, slip it in the hardy hole and bend the short leg flat to the face.

 

Now, heat the long leg from the bend up, insert it in the hardy hole and bend it back, the opposite direction from the bottom leg, place a piece of pipe about 2 1/2"-3" on the join and wrap it up, over and down till it's parallel with the other leg. Use more than 1/4" as a spacer, say 3/8" or a little less, more space will make it a LOT easier to insert your work stock.

 

I know this isn't all that clear a description bit it works fine and is an old OLD tool. Experiment with wire till you get the shape right.

 

Frosty The lucky

[Jim Coke]

Greetings again,

 

You use the flat pien to shape  flip the hammer to the flat side and remove the ridges....   easy try it.... Flip the stock over and hammer   all the ridges  sazamm will be gone....

 

Good luck

[RyanMark]

Thanks Jim, I will try it that way before I spend money making or buying a fuller.

[jgirard13]

6" is kind of a lot of metal to move at once evenly with the cross peen if you don't have alot of practice. That said- practice! Another way is to use the edge of the anvils face (I slightly rounded one side of mine) and use it as a Fuller using even blows at a 45° angle. Oh ya by the way, why 6" x 1/4"?

[RyanMark]

That sounds like a good idea.  I've changed my mind a few times but I'm still going with the bottom fuller method.  I'm just going to mount a crosspein hammer, pein side up, and hammer on that.  Then hammer on a flat surface.

 

This is for drawing out cast alloy ingots.  Can I buy it in the gauges I need?  Yes, but only from overseas.  I would like to make it myself in small amounts.

[jgirard13]

What type of metal? Cast alloy is kinda vauge to say the least

[RyanMark]

Bell metal.

[Maillemaker]

So.... Bronze? Brass?

[jgirard13]

Ahh bell metal... just like knife metal and jewelry metal

[GNJC]

I don't know about metal nomenclature in Arizona, but in the rest of the English-speaking world 'bell metal' is a well known term for a specific bronze alloy.

 

Not sure how much joy you will have in fullering it though RyanMark, there is a big risk of work-hardening and fractures. I think it will be better for your end product if you can get pieces of the dimensions you need. I can't see where you are; but if you are North America, the UK, Australia, or Europe I'll be very surprised if you can't get the metal you want.