bhardy501 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I found this anvil today, didnt have to give a lot for it. The top is pretty level but the sides of the top are pretty bad. I was thinking about grinding the sides down and rebuilding them up to the top. I dont know what kind it is, there are no markings on the anvil other than a 7 cast in the center of the bottom edge on the front. The horn area seems to be in decent shape. The worst part of it is the top sides. I was tinking that I would build up the top corners with either nickel rods for cast iron and then capping with hardening rods or just building it up with the surface hardening rods. I have been readingg about pre heat and then slow cooling in something like sand. Any thoughts? I dont have much in it so if I mess it up I am not out that much. Also anyone have any idea of who made it and a possible age? The size is approx 17" long, 3" wide (at top), and 8" tall. Weighs around 70 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 That's one homely anvil alright....Looks like there is some useable areas on the face and the horn is just a horn. I wouldn't get all strung out on fixing it up, just use it as is till you can get a better one..... ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhardy501 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 LOL, thats definitly an option. It may very well work out that way to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 just make shure theres no chips that are going to fly off when you hammer it , then use it as is and have fun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 if that is a cast Iron anvil - cast Iron arc rod are not cheap & for the time to fix invalved you really don't have much :( you mite try to run a test weld with an wire feed with plane steel wire if it sticks ?? take a chisel to it & try to knock it off if its still on well then wire feed the dare thing & grind --- I have done this twice on 2 anvil & fix a boat anchor LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Perform a couple of tests. Does it go clunk when tapped ? Does it ring when tapped. Spark test to see if it is cast iron. If it goes clunk and spark tests as cast iron, you have an anchor or a door stop for windy days. If steel and has a nice ring, well then it is likely there are possibilaties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhardy501 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 I tried striking the top and the horn with a ball peen hammer. It bounced and had a ring. I new that meant something but wasnt sure. If you hold the hammer above the anvil 5-6 in. and just let the head drop stirking the top it bounces several times and there is a resonance not a thud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 If you feel the need to have some good edges and do want to but alot of $ in it. Just follow the preheat instructions you have red about and weld it up with 7018 and let it air cool. I have done a few not so good anvils for people short on cash, this way and they have worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhardy501 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 If you feel the need to have some good edges and do want to but alot of $ in it. Just follow the preheat instructions you have red about and weld it up with 7018 and let it air cool. I have done a few not so good anvils for people short on cash, this way and they have worked fine. I have had several people tell me to do this process. I have about decided to go this route. I already have everything to do this with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Save up you money and not waste any more on stuff like that. When you purchase a good anvil it will become more meaningful than your first hot date. Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 It looks like a Vulcan with the slanted bottom of the heel and the type of damage to the sides and the low transition from the face to horn. Is there evidence of a steel plate on top of the horn? If it a Vulcan-oid anvil then the body will be cast iron and the face a *THIN* sheet of steel extending over the top of the horn. Whatever you do: DO NOT THIN THE FACE ANYMORE! Are you familiar with how other anvils sound when struck so as to compare the "ring"?. As others have mentioned it's probably a waste of time and consumables to re-work this one. There is still usable face on it---*use* *it*! If nothing else it's bait for your next anvil... BTW does it weigh about 70 pounds? Vulcans used to cast in a number that was appx the weight divided by 10... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhardy501 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Yes its about 70#. I looked at some pics of Vulcan anvils and they are very similar in style but I have seen no evidence of the circl emblem with the arm and hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I've got a small anvil that is in a (just) better condition than that one. It is very convenient to do experimental stuff on that I do not want to try on my good anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I have had several people tell me to do this process. I have about decided to go this route. I already have everything to do this with. Show us some pics when you get it done. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 If it is a Vulcan and you are intent on repairing it. You will need to use a special electrode for the first weld pass or two to provide a transition from the CI the the new steel alloy weld repair . There are a few repair electrodes that are recommended for welding cast iron and for joining dissimilar metals. This intermediate weld will bond to the cast iron and the following courses of weld will bond to the special alloy foundation weld. However these special alloy rods are pricey so may impact the decision of whether to repair or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhardy501 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Did a little grinding today. Dont really want to do any welding until I am absolutely ready and have averything in place. I dont want it to cycle through heat and cool several times. Doing it all at one time seemed to me the best route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Is that a sign of porosity under the steel cap on the horn? Seen a bunch of vulcan's with that, even have one that the horn broke off due to porosity that I use as a display piece as to why Vulcan's are not on my search list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 I have a 280 pound Vulcan that I repaired with 7018 over 20 years ago, but the damage was only to the plate (careless cutting torch use by a previous owner). I did not have to weld to the CI. It's held up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhardy501 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 There is several cutting torch gouges hear the horn. Is that what you are talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 That's what I was talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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