teknition Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I finished up my second knife tonight. Spec's are: 8" overall, 3-1/4" blade length, 1-1/2" at belly, fullytapered. 3/16" at widest point, flat ground, vine filework. 1084 carbon steel, stock removal, normalized 3X, heated to non magnetic and marquenched in 140 degree quench oil, tempered one hour 2X at 400 degrees. Sanded to 1200 grit and etched in ferric chloride, lightly sanded again with worn 1200 grit and WD40. Handle is African Ironwood with black and white spacers and stainless pins, CA finish, wetsanded to 1200 and buffed. All comments welcome, suggested improvements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julian Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 very pretty tek, looks like it cuts great and feels nice in the hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rantalin Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Very nice! I really like the work on the spine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknition Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 Thanks guys, I appreciate the compliments. Julian, the blade isn't sharpened yet but it does feel nice in the hand. I figured I would wait till I was done playing with it and taking pics to sharpen it so I didn't lose any fingers :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Wow! That is just a very nicely designed and finished knife. Although we see a lot of knives on this site I never get tired of looking at them. Thanks to the knife makers. I believe the knife makers help keep the balance here at IFI between high quality finish work, v. the rough finished quality of hand hammered products and finishes. I believe both have an interesting quality that is separate form one another. It seems as though each knife, hawk, hammer, or other tool someone has posted has its own unique qualities in the design, details, finish work, or personality in each piece that sets them apart. I notice that some knife makers have there own fingerprint (style) that becomes apparent in time that sets them apart in some unique way. I would bet in time we will be able to spot your work and say: “ That knife looks nice enough to be the work of Teknition" Be Safe! Old Rusty Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
me miller Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Very nice work . Looks more like an experienced hand than someone whom has just done a few. Keep it up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecart Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 That file-work is impressive. Keep it up Tek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknition Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 Thank you all for the kind words, as a new maker your feedback is very encouraging. I always strive to do the best I can as well as gain the skills and knowledge necessary to improve the projects I take on. Like you Ted, I never get tired of looking at the talents of others on this site in the gallery. The displays of skill, creativity, and artistic talent as well as the generous sharing of knowledge on IFI are what makes this site so great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Murch Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 140 deg oil? C or F? That's great for a second knife. Good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknition Posted May 20, 2007 Author Share Posted May 20, 2007 Thanks Tyler. The oil was 140 degrees F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Murch Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 What is the martensite strart temperature for 1084? For a full marquench, the oil has got to be heated just over the martensite start temperature. 140 F is actually below the martensite finish temperature I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknition Posted May 20, 2007 Author Share Posted May 20, 2007 Good question Tyler. These are some of the resources I used for learning the heat treat for 1084 (There isn't alot of info on the web about it)Heat treating 1084 SteelKnife Network : Workshop - Heat Treating From what I've read, the steel needs to go from 1500-1550 degrees to below 400 degrees in one second or less and the quench oil temp should be 140-150 degrees F to properly harden the steel I may have used the wrong term when I said "marquenched". What I meant by marquenched is that the blade was not fully submerged in the quench oil but rather it was partially submerged in the quench to leave the ricasso and most of the spine soft while the edge was fully hardened. I believe this is called marquenching? There are so many terms in the heat treating that it is sometimes confusing. I know that a blade being quenched in salt at just above 400 degrees (martensite finish) is referred to as marquenching. There are deffinate advantages to quenching in salt such as a more complete and gentle transformation to martensite and not having to regrind the blade to remove scale. From what I've read, (lots), basically the way you put the blade in the salt (finish) is the way it comes out. More advantages of salt pots are quick and even heating to critical temperature and less warpage because of the even heating of the steel (no burnt tips and decarburization, etc) I am planning on setting up salt tanks to treat the blades I make, I just haven't made it that far yet. I have the digitally controlled forge made already, all I have left is to get a stainless pipe and some salt to be able to do it. The price of stainless pipe is astronomical so it will have to wait for a bit until I can afford it (I have other priorities right now like a good bench to work on instead of a workmate). If you feel like sharing your knowledge of metalurgy and heat treating, I'm more than willing to listen. I by no means know it all or even a quarter of what I would like to learn on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Murch Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 That process is not marquenching. Marquenching is defined as when steel is quenched into a quenchant that is heated to the martensite start (ms) temperature of the particular steel you are working with. The ms temperature for many steels is around 450 - 500 F. The piece is held in the quenchant until it reaches the same temperature as the quenchant, it is then pulled out and air cooled. Marquenching results in a more gentle and even quench. You get less warping, and the steel is tougher at the same hardness as straight warm oil quenching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknition Posted May 20, 2007 Author Share Posted May 20, 2007 Thank you for clearing that up for me Tyler. I guess from what I've recently read, that I should have said the blade was "differentially quenched" or "edge quenched". For some interesting reading on heat treatment of steels, Mr.Cashen as well as Mete over on bladeforums have a pretty vast knowledge on the topic and are freely sharing some great info. Here is a link to just one of many threads on the subject over there.http://216.26.139.58/forums/showthread.php?t=440355 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyboy Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 I finished up my second knife tonight. Spec's are: 8" overall, 3-1/4" blade length, 1-1/2" at belly, fullytapered. 3/16" at widest point, flat ground, vine filework. 1084 carbon steel, stock removal, normalized 3X, heated to non magnetic and marquenched in 140 degree quench oil, tempered one hour 2X at 400 degrees. Sanded to 1200 grit and etched in ferric chloride, lightly sanded again with worn 1200 grit and WD40. pretty dang nice. a sweet puppy. buzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyboy Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 That process is not marquenching. Marquenching is defined as when steel is quenched into a quenchant that is heated to the martensite start (ms) temperature of the particular steel you are working with. The ms temperature for many steels is around 450 - 500 F. The piece is held in the quenchant until it reaches the same temperature as the quenchant, it is then pulled out and air cooled. Marquenching results in a more gentle and even quench. You get less warping, and the steel is tougher at the same hardness as straight warm oil quenching. i am saving this in doc. for future reference. man i learn a lot just reading this cool(hot) stuff. buzz very cool. hey the last time the guys had a fish fry i saved five gallons of the peanut oil they used to fry the fish. will this make a fair quenchant??? buzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Murch Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 It might do ok monkeyboy. Oil burns out after a while. Burning out is when all the goodies and what not in the oil are burned out in smoke/vapor/whatnot. A new gallon of peanut of canola oil is about $5. A gallon is more than enough for most blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.