teknition

Very nice job Joe!! For a first attempt it is quite a beauty, keep at it :)

Awesome post Rich. Taking the time to look at the ergonomics and work flow in your shop environment can same alot of time as well as strain on your body. Laying your tools out in a logical order of progression often means you dont even have to stop and think about what the next step in the progression is, because it is right next to the step you just took. Congratulations on the new milling maching, you will find it is a very handy tool. Be forewarned though, once you start using it and see all the cool things it can do, you will be spending as much on tooling as you did on the mill itself :D

Hi Jph, Thanks for the kudos. The fullering tool has 3/8" round rod for the upper and lower radius pieces, but you could make them any radius you want by scaling the size of the tool and rods up or down as required. When the jaws are closed, the upper rod lies directly over top of the bottom rod and they are in a fixed position. The only adjustments on the tool are the back guage to set the distance the fuller is in from the edge of the steel (controlled by the threaded rod length adjustment) and the t-bolt on top adjusts the height that the jaws open. The jaws are spring loaded so the height adjustment stops the jaws from opening too far between hits with the hammer. I have used the tool a few times and it does work but I need a to learn a bit more hammer control to perfect the results. You are correct that the tool can be easily made in a few hours. I mainly make blades and since I've made this tool I've found easier ways to fuller the blade with a rounded lathe bit tool that is dragged down the blade in a draw knife like fashion. If you have any more questions, just ask.

Thats a beauty, I like the unique look of the handle. Did you use any borax or other flux when welding the cable?

Thanks for the compliments guys Sounds like the skinner is a winner I'll have to make a few more of them. I found the fillet knife the hardest to make out of all of them because of the flex in the blade. The flexing makes it hard to control on the grinder.

Hi guys. Ive been busy in the shop and haven't had alot of time to get into chat, but I figured I would stop by an say Hi to all. I've posted some new blade pics on my website if anyone wants to have a look Anderson Knives

So much better with pics Nice job on the blades Steve... lookin good.

Hi Steve, From the description, they sound real nice. Can we see em too? ;)

Hello everyone, I've been busy out in the shop so I haven't been around in the chat room much lately. I have 3 new knives made but only have pics of 2 so far. I ordered a bunch of stabilized wood so I can finish the other 4 blades I have done that are ready for handles, it should be here soon. I've added a newly completed knife (brass bolstered hunter) and a new cable damascus letter opener to my gallery. Thought you guys might like to have a look. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/643 Take care :)

:o I really love the look of that one Rich. The amber sets it off quite nicely.

I haven't actually weighed it yet, but I can carry it around myself. So I'm thinking closer to 100 lbs. I will weigh it tomorrow and see. It looks much like a fisher anvil from the pictures I've found. The only thing that really leaves me wondering is that all the fisher anvil pics I've seen have a bolt hole in the front and rear on the base of the anvil. Mine lacks these holes but it looks like someone torched a notch in the front center of the base.

I'm with Thomas, I thing its a RR car journal half. Just a guess tho :D

Thanks for the replys guys. Very informative as always So, now we have established they did have anvils in the millitary during WWII, and most likely a Fisher. Now, does anyone have one or pics of one so I can tell if thats in fact what I have? Did they Have any distiguishing makers mark on them?