I posted last week about texturing. I made a small tree to go in a rail in my cabin. Everything worked out great. I welded tthe limbs on with my stick welder, took my time with angle grinder and dremel and fixed the welds. I am wanting to just Beeswax when done. Problem is the welds are shiny and the tree is black. Before I mess something up, how do I get the shiny to match the black. Thanks Randy.

You could try heating the welds with a torch until the temper color turns dark. Often when I'm finishing a piece, I'll heat the entire thing to black and dip it in oil (or beeswax). It makes a nice uniform finish. We'd love to see a picture.

Heat to scaling temp and let cool, or paint

Well he was cleaning up stick welds

Thanks for the help. I have a small propane torch. I still have to do some leafs and vines on the other end. (First time for that also) Any hints on doing small smooth vines or tendrals out of 1/4 round. Will post pics. when finished. Thanks Randy

Tig welding of tendrils gives the flow and avoids cleanup issues.

Perhaps looking into a weed burner and a propane torch for spot heating---helps a lot of have firebrick around it to help hold heat.

Look into blacksmithing!

an oxy propane nozzle set to lean (high oxygen ) will scale up the welds quicker , then just clean it all up together.

I've also seen cold gun bluing solution used to fix this issue.
Patrick

When I cannot forge weld pieces together I use oxy/acty or propane to weld small branchs and leaves. This makes it easy to fill in and blend. If I can I wll heat and hammer the joint. If I cannot hammer I use a Dremel type tool to blend or a 1/2 round or rattail file then heat to scale and wire brush. It sounds like a lot of work but the results are worth it.

The best way I've found to make grinder scratches disappear when doing welded ''branch'' joints is after grinding use a needle scaler with rounded,polished needles and heat. Cold blue works too. Hot brushing the joint with a wire cup wheel really blends it nice but in amongst other branches this can be difficult.

Depending on the patina. I will use a flat primer to match the color. On a tree branch I might use a flat red metal primer. Ace has a red primer that dries a brown color. I just spray the ground areas. After it is dry, then I will rub three coats of brown Briwax into the rest of the piece.

Heat it up a dull red and wire wheel it,

If you end up with areas you can't get into with a grinder you can even get it orange hot and hit it hard with the wheel and it will tear out whatever is there

Thanks for the tips, I heated it and it blended in pretty good. I worked on the other end this weekend, was just going to do some small leaves and vines. I wound up with a small pile of scrap. I will learn from my mistakes, but it is so frustrating. I will watch some Youtube and try it again this weekend. Randy.

I was always taught that if You grind one weld on anything, down smooth that is. ,that you will or should grind them all after that.
So I too use my stick machine To apply limbs and such. But reheat them And try to draw the dogknots,( technical term for globs ) back down. A tig is the perfect way To attach things. Cause you can wash things away and blend welds into other things.
But even though I make my living as a tig welder. I Don't have one at home. So I use a little mig alot on things. Cause my AC stick machine can be a booger to make small tacks.