Not to worry Alan, we live and learn.  I've got a bit of a habbit of barreling into things i'm afraid.  This forge has only really cost me around sixty odd pounds so if it all went tits up it wouldn't be too much of a problem.  I've not yet had a go with a forge so hopfully as my skills develop, my forge will too.  I greatly appreciate everyones help on this forum and hope that I can re pay your efforts with some photo's of some forged steel in the not too distant future.

A Blacksmith has just moved into the area after the forge had remained empty for a time so I'm hoping to go and help out for an afternoon a week.

Hi Alan,

Any chance you could send me a photo of your hearth or of an example of the mud/ash/brick swans nest arrangment.  I'm quite sure where to aim to have the fire in relation to the tue.  

Cheers,

 

Olly

Hi Olly, Course coming up next weekend, I can show and explain what you are discussing, also there is some coke dust and firebricks  you can have to help fill the surround around the 'nest', don't forget your notebook and camera(s)

Hi Alan,

Any chance you could send me a photo of your hearth or of an example of the mud/ash/brick swans nest arrangment.  I'm quite sure where to aim to have the fire in relation to the tue.  

Cheers,

 

Olly

Herewith a quick sketch of the back blast arrangement, I will take a photo of the heat shields when I go over to the forge later.

The note about drying the breeze on the front is basic fire control, you have probably already experienced the joy of a bit of wet coke exploding and the hot bits sticking to your lip!

 

You can see the prop stand system, really handy, works best on a packed earth floor.

 

Alan

Hi Olly, Course coming up next weekend, I can show and explain what you are discussing, also there is some coke dust and firebricks  you can have to help fill the surround around the 'nest', don't forget your notebook and camera(s)

Well there's an offer you can't refuse!

 

A picture is worth a 1000 words

A demonstration is worth a 1000 pictures

Doing it yourself is worth a 1000 demonstrations!

Cheers John, looking forward to the course.  Thought I'd try and get in a bit of practice before the weekend!  I've got some old bits of fire back that I've arranged around the tue to create a nest for the fire.  Seems to work alright.  I've got friends around at the moment so haven't managed to sneak more than an hour or so on the forge but initial tests seem positive.  I'm using anthrasite at the moment and had the steel sparkling white.

Thanks for the sketch Alan, I'll take a look this eve and see if I can simulate something like what you describe.  I'll get a photo up as well at some point.

Thanks again all!

Just because you have a big hearth are, does not mean you have to fill it to use it, as you have discovered, see you on Friday 

Here's the forge as it stands.

 

 

 

I decided to go for that gator type flashing I saw on eBay in the end.  It's a really good seal but obviously a more expensive option.  Around thirty two pounds all in.  I've not yet made the braces to support the remaining three meters of flue so have been running the forge with just one meter but it still works well.  Flue pipe is 9".

 

 

The photo below is from today after I finished with the fire.  It shows my rough looking fire brick/ brick arrangement.

 

Herewith photos of heat shields.

 

I note your "almost identical to mine" four legged rheostat support stand! We must just go to the same forge-furniture-r-us store!

 

There you go, just replace the firebricks with cokedust and use you firebricks to fill in near the outer edges before putting the coke dust in, and thats what we are talking about.

 

Flue would have been better through a single roof sheet, but hindsight is great.

 

Is the remaining flue in one section? you may not need all the 3 metres so you can reduce the need for bracing.

 

Looks good, works fine, Well done.

I know it is an after working pic, but you will need fuel well above tue level when in use, will see what I mean on the course

I have a flue section in two meters then a 800cm section with a cowl on.  I wanted to go through a single sheet of tin but it wasn't possible due to the positioning of the forge.  It was a right pain.  It's still water tight though thankfully.

Try the 800+cowl section first to assess the draw, you may not ned to go full height.

 

If that works ok just secure it with a couple of pop rivets or screws, this will stop it lifting off and seperating in a wind.

 

if your hearth is secure and not likely to move, you should not need support stays as your register plate will hold the base, and the seal support the flue

It's funny.  I've just put up my Alcosa F50 hand cranked forge for sale as I've never lit it as I use the gas one all the time.  Mines got a round bed on it and a conical tuyre that sticks in about 4"

Edited May 31, 201511 yr by Whittler Kev