Countryforge Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 I have a large lump of manganese steel which would be ideal for a swage block if I am to build a frame for it what would be the ideal height. We have some very important dignitaries coming to my shop and this piece may be of some use for the demonstrations. It is 6 inches thick 3 feet long 2 feet wide. Any suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillon Sculpture Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Anvil height for your striking surface but depends what side your using, it is nice to have a multilevel stand so you can turn it, if you can turn it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Yes, now that you mention it, I do have a few suggestions. You want to impress someone, get some tools that are actually proven in use, and usable by mere mortals. A 6" thick 3 foot long block is unheard of outside of an old-time railroad or shipyard smithy. Rebuilt any steam boilers lately? Cut that huge un-wieldy chunk into 3 equal sections of 1' x 2' x 6", and make them into Brian Brazeal style multiple die surface anvils. Keep one, sell two and use the proceeds to buy a real swage block or two. Most of the big blacksmith and farrier suppliers sell them new in various sizes. Most will be between 3" and 4" thick. Mount them in a solid angle iron frame between 24" and 30" high for the working surface. Here is a picture (from an online newsletter) of Mark Aspery at a demo with a double wide stand for a matched set of two Wally Yater style blocks. Note how low it is, Mark is not over 6' tall. My photo from another shop demo. Then, there is a great trunnion mount style swage block that is easy for one person to turn without using an overhead crane and chain falls. Again, those from an industrial shop of a century ago weighed a quarter ton. Here is a photo I took of the currently available item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryforge Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Thank you It is only here that I can get such great response. I will start the frame tomorrow. Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Height depends on use and your physical set up too; do you want us to tell you how tall you are and the length of your arm and what you will be forging on so we can give you the "proper" height? However there are usually several "proper heights" One is even with your anvil face for working directly on the swageblock, the other is down several inches for using set tools on your swageblock with the distance being about the height of your set tools so they will have their striking surfaces about even with the top of your anvil. Note that is you are going to use your block as a punching bolster then have it the proper height for use with your punches as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Like Thomas Powers said, it depends on what you are doing. You want the full throw of your hammer. I'd suggest under 30 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryforge Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks Brian you can use it in September Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Last weekend at Stan's hammer-in we used the big block that is made like a table height! Striking on top and bottom tools on hot 2 inch 4150 stock at that height was unforgiving. Way too tall and that made it very tiring to get a full good swing to the top tools. There has been a bunch of discussion on striking blocks and anvils so there are a lot of differing opinions floating around. If I was to use the block only ocassionally I would have it tall. But if I needed it to support a lot of real heavy striking It would be quite low, maybe so low as the person holding the top tools could be using a chair to sit in. Of course I have never been in that situation but I have had the opportunity to strike on one too tall. Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.