Questions about forging L6

[quint]

So I have played around with a little mild steel which was pretty easy to manipulate, did some 1084 which wasnt all that bad but these were all 3/16". Ive got some L6 that is 5/16" thick, it is just a xxxxxx to get to move. I was wondering is it just stepping up in thickness that is the difficulty, is L6 and other alloys just a xxxxxx to forge or is my forge just not getting hot enough. My read out says it is getting about 1950f to 2000f. The metal is getting a nice bright orange to yellow color.

Sorry if some of this is really rudimentary but I am kind of teaching myself, I do have a knife forging book on the way but it wont be here for a little bit. The complete bladesmith forging your way to perfection.

Thanks for any help.

[quint]

Actually I think I found some of the info I was looking for. Sounds like the forging temp for this stuff is around 1950f or less so my temperatures were fine. Guess not having forged something that thick shows how little Ive actually done

[pkrankow]

Chrome, nickel, Vanadium, molybdenum...
http://www.efunda.com/materials/alloys/tool_steels/show_tool.cfm?ID=AISI_L6&prop=all&Page_Title=AISI+L6

Yes, it is going to be stiffer at temperature and not just because it is thicker stock. Similar dimensions of 10xx or a36 will move easier.

Phil

[Rich Hale]

i checked several on line sources and did not find a recipe including vanadium for this steel. I have forged quite a bit of it and it just seemd like most knife grade steels to me. I do not have thermal testin meters on my forge but really do not think I have ever forged it at the 1900f temp range. My wild guess is that if you spend more time forging a small difference in thickness will not be much of a bother..May help if you get into a group or seek someone to check your body mechanics and equipment. I like this steel and am about out,will order more when thta happens. Heat treat to me is a little easiere for folks newe to this if they ctick to ten series steels for a while. 1084 is a realy good knife steel. Keep track of each bleade yo9iu make, wot yoiu did with it from start to finish including all of the heat treating steps,,,make notes as youi wish..Then put each blade throuigh some testing to see just wot it does in use,,The ABS has a series of tests yoiu can refer to for a start. Have fun.

[Steve Sells]

I have no clue where Phil got that strange read out for L6. I am aware of only 2 regular manufactures of L6 in the states, Crucible (rounds only), and Timken (flats 3/8 inch and thicker) neither of whom include any silicon nor vanadium. only Carbon,Chrome, Manganese,Nickel and Moly, tho I would like to try some with a little Silicon I did not include amounts as they both differ in that a bit. The major difference between L6 and 15N20 is the moly and the chrome.

I never advise beginners to work with alloys until after getting the basic 10XX series mastered. as I see 2 days ago you posted your first knife, you have a way to go learning how to use the hammer before worrying about the stranger things, but its your call

[jmccustomknives]

I have a older bladesmithing book were the author says L-6 has vanadium, I've never ran across 1 manufacturer that listed it as an alloy. I've got plenty of plate that size, I see no reason to forge it. Stock removal for me is twice as fast as cleaning up the forging on thin material. I've used it for some damascus, the stuff that worked turned out real well. I think the problem you have is high carbon + thin cross section. I love working with L-6, it is very forgiving and makes an excellent knife. I think you will find forging high carbon stuff gets a little easier if you use 1/4 " stuff, at least that's my experience.

[quint]

Thanks for all the input guys its very much appreciated.
Steve I am very much a first time forger and will stick with the 10xx series steels for a while. I just happened to have this L6 which I got from Aldo (NJ steel baron) a while back and wanted to play with it. I have some 1084 on hand and some 1075 in 1/4" arriving today hopefully.

The L6 available today is usually from crucible or carpenter if I remember correctly. Ive talked with a few people about the stuff Aldo has and its a good L6 that if I remember is closer to the carpenter recipe. There are a bunch of 8670M which is similar but not the same as L6, admiral steel tried substituting it for L6 but the knife makers corrected them on this. 8670M is also a great steel, I have a nice blade made out of that that I bought and really like it as well.

If I can get the recipe for this stuff I have I will post it up. Again thanks for the input and info. If I can ever get to one of the forging events up here in WA I will definitely try but the schedule right now is pretty crazy to say the least. Lucky to get to play with this stuff as it is.

[Rich Hale]

Just checked the link Phil added to his ost and it for sure says the steel has vanadium in it. It also lists all values for temp in Centigrade.Makes me wonder wot couitry that info came from. With an AISI rating that should not make a difference but maybe it does. I did not see location mentioned on the site. Also did not see whehther they are a supplier and if so wot sizes are availeable from them. For me having V in L 6 would not be a bad thing at all. And I may check with Aldo next time I order.
However that was not the purpose of my first post in this thread.I believe that as you develop skills and abilities in forging this steel will forge just fine. you will certainly be able to tell the difference in the way hot steel moves under the hammer between mild and HC.And that is a huge learning key,,,How does steel move? in which direction? and wot tools does it take to make that happen predictably each and everytime? Steel composition has a big affect on how it forges. Some steel that is really big change from mild.HC is not the big player in this,,If yoiu try a piece of S-7 steel which I make alot of hot work punches, It is formulated to not distort under impact even if it is hot. Works great for wot i use it for, does take a lot to forge because of that. Keep at it Quint you are on your way. The hammer marks in your first p;ost can be worked out with a few things.remove sharp ees from the face of your hammers,,anvil height can also cause that as well as fatique. it takes nyone some time to develp muscle memory and skill with a hammer. Until then, it maybe that you could p;ick simple things like hooks etc and forge from mild, make pieces longer..wider. shorter, thinner, fatter. Make them to exact patterns,,toss everything you need to,,Mild is not pricy at all.The back to your Hc and Yo may find that the time spent was a worth while investment of time.

[Steve Sells]

To be clear I love L6, My major point to Quint and others, is to start with one steel and master that first, not switching steels every week. This way you are working on learning the blade making skills, Not having to adjust to the nuance of the different steel alloys on each blade as well, makes leaning curve smoother, with less variables.

[quint]

Thanks for the info guys. I talked to someone that works this steel and yes it is a bear to shape. Probably something I will come back too later on once I get a little more experience. I think I will stick with the 1075 and 1084 steels for my knife forging adventures for a while and the mild steel for the various other pieces that I will practice on.