smuldrow Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 I just found this anvil at a job I was working yesterday and was able to haul it off for free. It is a Hay Budden as you can tell, but I was wondering if this is indeed a broken top plate? I can't seem to get a serial number off of it so I was also wondering if there was some other way to find out the year it was manufactured? She has a great ring to her and weighs 190 pounds. Thanks for any help you can give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smuldrow Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 I am sorry the pictures are so large. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Download the FREE program called "fotosizer" and try to resize them to 600 X 800 px. Works great for my pics, and it's free. Yep, your anvil has a broken face. Don't sweat the serial number. I have a 250# Trenton that is pitted just like that and can't get a number. It still works just fine. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smuldrow Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 How much does it affect the use? Can I expect further separation of the face plate? How much would it drop value? Just throwing out rule of thumb figures but from 2.50 a pound to 1.50 or not much value at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 There are several threads in the anvil section on repairing/replacing the face. I am, by far, no expert on repairs. However, there a lot of folks on here that do have the knowledge and experience needed to do such repairs. I'm sure that they will respond soon. Your anvil is useable as is, but would be better if it had the complete face. It's present cash value is limited by the damage. But don't give up on it just because of that. It is still a good anvil and worth the trouble and expense to repair. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 its junk , ill pay shipping to get it off you right now and forget you ever seen it ! lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BM454 Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 This should help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16214-signs/http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16234-anvil-repair-on-the-cheap/http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16052-what-do-you-think-of-this-anvil-repair-approach/http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16998-robb-gunther-and-karl-schulers-anvil-repair-process/http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0101-anvil-repair-r330 some reading You can use the anvil the way it is (for a while at least) without doing significant further damage. You have a good heel, hardy, and pritchel. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Cut the rest off and replace it with a T11 Steel plate 3/8's is Dagum good 1/2 inch is Awesome bevel the underside weld it to the Anvil and you are good to go for many years ! Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Basically, if this anvil was a car someone has pretty much destroyed everything in front of the trunk down to the frame. Drives the price WAY DOWN for anyone who knows about anvils; I might go US$80 on it for a spare horn and hardy hole. It can be rebuilt using something like Rob Gunter's repair methods; however unless your time and rod and electricity is free you probably could buy another in better condition cheaper. DON"T have a weldor who doesn't know how to repair anvils touch it as that will lower it's value even more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Consider this. Free is good. When you forge over the horn, you are forging on wrought iron (same wrought that is in the body of the anvil). I would just use the anvil as acquired. Many of the OLD anvils had no top plate ( not meaning Hay Budden). The mass of the body of this anvil will stand a good amount of forging over the waist. I might take a sharp file and lightly drawfile the place where it is obvious that someone has left a few marks on it. Might dress a radius on the far edge on the front corner, then use it ! Hardy tools will still fit the hole. Your skill in hammer control will make the difference in any future molestations of the wrought face. The way I see it, you have an extended cutting table face but still have the step. Absolutely usable anvil. YES there will be issues with not having a full flat surface. Good luck. You'll find another and use them both. If you wish to repair ( or have it repaired ) there are links posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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