Smiths Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I signed up at this forum a couple of years ago, and just now am going to jump in. My son and I are building our first forge from scrounged materials found on the farm. I thought it might be helpful to someone else down the line if we document this. Plus it's a great way to get your help in figuring it all out! (I hope.)A few things about our plans (subject to change):We plan to make our own charcoal Planning on Bellows (probably Japanese Box) Right now, thinking of a "V" trough - shaped fire pot Planning to line / build-up with an adobe / kitty litter mixture We are interested in (this order): knife making, hooks, latches, pot racks. One day I'd like to make a garden gate (dreaming out loud) I would love my ideas to be ripped apart before we build it. Because, we will build it either way, but of course we would like to get it at least close to "right" the first time. Below are some pics of some of the stuff we've started on. I have been searching these forums and still think I need you all to chime in to help us come up with an effective design. I will be documenting everything from start to finish - and hopefully incorporating your advice tips and ideas. First, we came across this old baby-drum feeder a lady used to feed emus: It is 27-1/2" in length by 17" wide (inside the angle iron). 7-3/4" from belly bottom to the top of the angle iron. It has a solid frame and legs, but there was some rust in the belly which we have already cut out: We're thinking that since we are going to line it / build it up with a "refractory" mix that it should be fine to patch it up with this piece of sheet metal we stripped from the front door of a broken dish washing machine: So, our next step is to wire brush the whole thing and use some black rustoleum on it. I found an unused can in the basement. Some questions I have already, are:How long do you think the fire box should be? Is the V-trough a good idea for our desired uses? Can / should we just build up flush with the top of the angle iron, or does a forge like this need a cutout on the ends for feeding stock? Should I use a side-blast or a bottom blast? Looking forward to your wealth of knowledge. Please reply to this thread or even supply links with advice. I'll look at and listen to everything you have to offer. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Well, you've got 90% of a Tim Lively trough forge, and those use a pipe along the bottom with the air coming in from the side. So, I guess it's a side/bottom blast design. ;) The hole in the bottom should be easily covered by the sheet metal you have, and the fire cement over that should be all you need. Personally, I don't like a long trough unless you are trying to bring a long piece up to temperature for heat treating. That's not that common a practice, though, for 99% of what you're going to be doing as you learn to work steel with a hammer. So, I'd recommend a small fire pot that concentrates the heat better. Your hammer can only work a short area at any give time, so don't try to heat up 8" of stock.... right? Looks like you're doing good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 http://timlivelyknives.com/washtubforge.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiths Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Well, you've got 90% of a Tim Lively trough forge, and those use a pipe along the bottom with the air coming in from the side. So, I guess it's a side/bottom blast design. ;) The hole in the bottom should be easily covered by the sheet metal you have, and the fire cement over that should be all you need. Personally, I don't like a long trough unless you are trying to bring a long piece up to temperature for heat treating. That's not that common a practice, though, for 99% of what you're going to be doing as you learn to work steel with a hammer. So, I'd recommend a small fire pot that concentrates the heat better. Your hammer can only work a short area at any give time, so don't try to heat up 8" of stock.... right? Looks like you're doing good. Thanks for tip! So, you prefer more of a bowl over a trough. I can make a bowl any size right now. If I go for a bowl for what I'm planning is 12" diameter best? Is 12" too big or too small? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiths Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 http://timlivelykniv...ashtubforge.htm Thanks Sweany, I have been looking at that page lately. It's good to put it in this thread though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiths Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 If I use the Box Bellows, and a smaller, round fire bowl, should I blast from the side or bottom? Also, does anyone know the best orientation of the bellows to the forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 You want to be able to work the bellows with one hand while messing with your piece with the other hand. I prefer the tong hand to be messing with the piece and the hammer hand to be working the bellows as you then don't need to switch anything on the tong hand and it's easy to let go of the bellows and grab a hammer. I'd look real hard at a lively set up---you may be a bit deep; but for charcoal that may not be a bad thing! Mound up the sides with clay/adobe so they funnel the charcoal towards the tuyere and it's possible to make an expanding fire forge by having the tuyere pipe go all the way out the opposite end and then putting in a "ram rod" to control how much is getting air from the bellows. One thing DO NOT GET HOOKED ON IT BEING THE PERFECT FORGE; expect to rework it to suit yourself and your changing projects! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiths Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 You want to be able to work the bellows with one hand while messing with your piece with the other hand. I prefer the tong hand to be messing with the piece and the hammer hand to be working the bellows as you then don't need to switch anything on the tong hand and it's easy to let go of the bellows and grab a hammer. I'd look real hard at a lively set up---you may be a bit deep; but for charcoal that may not be a bad thing! Mound up the sides with clay/adobe so they funnel the charcoal towards the tuyere and it's possible to make an expanding fire forge by having the tuyere pipe go all the way out the opposite end and then putting in a "ram rod" to control how much is getting air from the bellows. One thing DO NOT GET HOOKED ON IT BEING THE PERFECT FORGE; expect to rework it to suit yourself and your changing projects! Fantastic advice! I can't believe my son and I didn't think of needing to operate the bellows with our left hands. I was still stuck thinking about air flow from the bellows to the pot. Goes to show we haven't actually worked any metal yet! Thanks for the "ram rod" tip. I had read about that before, but did not understand exactly what people meant. The light just came on in my head when I read it the way you worded it. It makes perfect sense now. You guys are being a great help to us. Thanks! I'll be putting up more pics on the build soon. Oh, and last night my brother dug a piece of RR track from his garage. So, I guess we'll figure out a way to mount that on end for a temporary anvil. Any ideas on the best way to set up the rail? In sand, cement, etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Best RR Track mounts I have seen. Wayne Goddard filled in the web of a RR track anvil by welding in plate steel and used it in the horizontal position. This adds mass to the rail, better for pounding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiths Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Best RR Track mounts I have seen.http://www.anvilfire...rail_anvils.php Wayne Goddard filled in the web of a RR track anvil by welding in plate steel and used it in the horizontal position. This adds mass to the rail, better for pounding. Thanks for that link. I think it's going to help a lot. I've been on anvilfire a few times and had trouble finding my way around. Time to have another look, because that is some great info you sent me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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