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Anyone know what type of Anvil this is?

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Hi everyone, I am going to an auction inspection (Saturday) and then the auction on Sunday as this anvil popped up very close to home. Since I may not have much time to check with you, and get responses, does anyone know what this is? I know nothing about size, brand etc. This will be released at inspection. However, maybe some of the collective expertise could help me out, thanks Rich.


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Circa 1860-1910 English make, wrought iron body, tool steel face in good condition, probably less than 100 pounds. A very desirable small portable anvil due to the blocky shape putting more mass under the hammer.

The name on the anvil is of no real importance to anyone but a collector, function and condition are everything to a blacksmith.

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I have to second the info John has put down above. The shorter horn is more the style of an Attwood (yet another of dozens of English manufacturers.) Peter Wright and Mousehole (AKA Armitage) tended to have longer horns in relation to body size.

Not knowing where you are in Canada, I can't really make a guess at an auction price. The southern Ontario region is anvil rich. While on Vancouver Island anvils are rare. Over the years prices have gone up for various reasons (inflation, not just e-bay!) from so estimate $3/lb and adjust from there depending on condition, size, and unfortunately the local market.

Also I suggest you go to anvilfire.com, and read the "Getting Started In Blacksmithing" pages; there's a lot of good advice and info about anvils on those pages. I go back my self every few months and reread to refresh my mind.

And lastly (here's the shameless plug) - I've got an anvil listed for sale in the 'tailgating section ' here.

Good luck.


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Postman has documented over 200 different English Anvil makers, many of which produced anvils that look quite similar. (Often due to the makers having originally worked for Mousehole or Peter Wright before starting their own companies...)

So What you most want to check is face thickness and rebound and lack of defects.

The face thickness you should be able to eyeball and as long as there is an appreciable amount you are good to go (say 3/8" minimum)

Rebound is best judged by the ball bearing test described over at anvilfire.com

Finally the best check for hidden defects for that *style* of anvil construction is to "ring the anvil" by tapping it with a light hammer. If it has a thud instead of a ring there is a hidden crack or face delamination---may not be a deal killer; but would you pay top price for a used car with a blown engine?

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